Prince Polo

Mountains in the distance

Prince was what was for snack-time yesterday when Erin and I did a short scramble to an unidentified pass (I call it Deception Pass). Thanks to John and Unnur for the wonderful Prince Polo...my favourite chocolate of all time!!!;)

It was full on winter conditions yesterday with strong winds and lots of spindrift up in the alpine! To top the day we went for dinner and a bouldering session at Mike/Ellen´s which provided at great workout for the rest of the day...lasted until almost 11PM.

Canmore seems to be getting the summer it never really got right now and hopefully we can enjoy some of it on warm enough walls after work this coming week

Erin getting away from the wind at Deception Pass

Air Time

No time wasted this day as we headed to Lake Louise for a few more 10c gear routes to add to the list!!! It was brutally cold as we "warmed-up" on Imaginary Face 5.9 on bolts! I think it was about 2-3°C at that time. Got on Crimson Skies after that which is a pretty over hanging route that goes at 5.10c on gear. After pulling through a big roof and continuing on steepness to another smaller roof I was getting tired. Put in a yellow, small BD friend (as big as the with of my pinkie finger...which isn´t that big at all) and pulled over the roof...no holds in sight I struggled on sloppers and went for the ride of my life! F#%k was the only thing that got out of my mouth as Erin looked up in horror and then looked down, waiting for me to yank her up with the force of my fall! 7-8m in the air didn't do much for her to feel me on her end of the rope and I barely scraped my shin! wow

Despite this I finished the route and then did another 5.10c on gear called I Hear My Train a-Coming which was climbed first by one of Erin´s co-workers Rob Rohn back in 1983, when Erin was 2 years old ;)

The reason I am going for 15 gear climbs at 5.10c or harder is because I have to finish them in order to get another application ready for the ACMG Asst Rock Guide training next year. Since I tore my tendons in some fingers in my left hand I had to re-do30 routes this year which was a challenge with a hurt hand! But I have only 4 more to go and then I can focus on the Ski Guide exam this year...if I get in!

Yup, back from the road! Left last Friday for Squamish and it was pissing rain as we pulled into Squampton on Saturday. I went straight into the Annual Guides Meet with the ACMG so it was a long day of driving and listening to meet-talk!
Sunday Erin and I woke up to dry conditions for the first part of the day so we went to the Smoke Bluffs and got in a few routes...mostly all of them being 5.10c´s on gear for my goal of this trip...15 5.10c´s on gear!!!
It started raining again so we bailed to the Interior, AKA Kamloops hoping for dryness, but it rained there as well...got one day in and did lots of routes at the Beach, on sighting 11b etc. Jonathan came with us for the morning and got his first taste of climbing...hope he liked it!
Yesterday we got to Skaha, Pendicton. Yes, raining there too but it dried up a bit so I got in 4 more 10c´s on the list in a short period of time and now we are here in Canmore again and are heading to Lake Louise tomorrow to finish the list off. It should be doable as it is Friday tomorrow and cold...these Canadians don´t seem to like the cold too much!!!
Did not take a lot of pics during the trip...so sorry!
L8R

This is Black sunshine...bitter sweet symphony!

Mike on a 10c pitch in the Ghost...Ellen is either really impressed by him...or just yawning;)!!!

Those were the tunes we listened to today (on the way in and on the way out!) on the road to the Ghost Valley today! Rob Zombie on the way in to get the mood going and then calm stuff to, well, calm us down after a day of fun climbing in the Ghost.

Erin and I went with Mike and Ellen today to this area called the Silver Tongued Devil in the Ghost today and Erin and I did three routes, kind off! Erin's ankle is still giving her grief! When she could not climb anymore I just did full stretch rope-leangths, close to 70m pitches of pure fun rock climbing in a spectacular place with fun people...well, except for the few naggers that were around!!! F%$kers!!!

Yesterday we all went to Grassy Lakes were Mike and I got up a 5.12a with some hanging...I feel good about it though as I only hang twice and I am sure I can send it before the end of the fall! And yes, it is fall here as we scrape the ice of our cars every morning for a while now. But the weather was so great today despite scraping windows in the morning, that we all got burned today by the sun...it felt good to get all that Vitamin from the sun. I am actually smiling these days and feel good about going for full 10 days of climbing soon to finish of my training for the rock climbing season!!!

Winter is close and I have a schedule already for this coming winter...but I will reveal it later

Pleasantly Caving Inn

Erin on the LadyMac ridge in 2006

Sitting here on a Saturday morning wandering if it will dry up at all today! Got up at 7 all excited to go climbing today but its wet outside and supposed to start raining again at noon...bummer!

I did get out for a burn on Thursday when I did the technical ridge on LadyMac in 3hrs and 50min car-to-car. Its a route with maybe two sections at 5.4ish short steps but mostly its a long scramble and it was perfect for a day out alone in the mountains. Just givin´er with my music blasting in my ears (after getting on the ridge of course so I wouldn´t chance running into bears or cougars). Great day out

Last night Erin and I did a session with Mike and Ellen in their new little climbing gym. Its fun to hang out and create all your own little problems with just people you like!

Jæja Samuraja

Becoming lazy in this blogging world! Whats new? The ground was covered with snow yesterday here in Canmore and this morning it was 2°C! Feels like winter it coming soon.

I did go out for climbing this weekend for the first time since July 14Th pretty much. Went with Bernie on Friday to Grassy Lakes, the upper part which has finally opened after ca 2 years of closure. Then went with Ryan Creary to Cougar for a few routes on Saturday...where I fell in the creek and massacred my right foot, a real blood bath just before starting climbing. Yep, so many things are more dangerous than climbing, just walking on paths is enough...just ask Erin!

I sent in my application for the Full Ski Guide exam this past week and if I get in then its full on ski training all winter along with work at Monashee Powder where I will be doing 2 weeks on and 2 weeks off for about 4 months.

Stay cool