Yup, did Corkscrew with Josh Smith last Thursday. It goes at 5.12a or 5.8 A0...and yes, we did it at the A0 grade. Its a classic exam route for the guides course so it had to be done!
Doing a route like that free is not only hard but kind of insane as the bolt ladder is ca 40 years old!! If I was on sighting 12's then I would not do that on this route! Its scary enough to put your weight on those old bolts instead of chancing a fall on them!!! Excellent route and again, as always for Yamnuska, those that put up the route had some strong head space!
Guiding: we spend a lot of money and time to get qualified to take people out and do all the worrying for them! Guests spend alot of $$$ to go out skiing/climbing and not having to train to much for it and therefor not having to think about hazards! Might seem silly to do some things that you see guides do but it all makes perfect sense if you think about it. I can honestly say that if I was going to do my first heart transplant that I would screw up in the most simple areas (simple to the surgeon).
At work right now, went and hiked to the Parker slabs after my toure! Found 4 bolted slab heavens! Potential for way more. Also looked at some very intimidating quartzite area that only has a hand full of routes. Man, us humans are so small! Int eh presence of great natural features, you feel small!!!
Hung out with some cool marmots as well after work...just them and I
Enough for now
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