FREON

Are we hard-core...or just stupid?

2009-11-01T15:45:00.004-07:00

Hmmm, the reason I ask that is because last weekend on Saturday Erin, Rebecca and I went and did Raptor in ok weather but it was just above freezing...then I mean like 1°C. Fridjon on Raptor last weekend at 1°C. Raptor is 5.10c 220 meters!!!

Since then I have gone mixed climbing and ice climbing but today, exactly a week after Raptor, I went again with Erin and Rebecca for some "nice" rock climbing! We did a route at Grassy, also a 5.10c, but there was now everywhere and just before I reached the anchores my fingers had felt like wooden stumps for a while! But you know what? It was awesome!!!Erin on the 5.10c (c is for cold)

Becca on the 5.10c

And poor Fridjon leading the 10cold

Of course Poppy came along on the climbing atventure.

Lets look at photos from the past

2009-10-30T14:35:00.004-06:00

Weeping Wall

Yam bouldering

Me mix climbing

Me Bouldering

Erin climbing one of the many steps on This House of Sky

Erin on SE ridge of LadyMac

Erin bouldering in Little China

Rest day

2009-10-27T12:55:00.004-06:00

Josh Smith on Shades of Beauty WI4

Been out and about for the last few days!

My ass ass seen by Chris Gooliaff on some route close to Curtain Call

Went to the Playground, finally, with Erin on Saturday. We did 4 routes all on-sight, nothing crazy, up to M6+! Really cool spot and excellent for times when the ice is trying to hide!!!

Again, my behind

Believe it or not, climbed Raptor on Sunday with Erin and Becca. Yes, it was pretty cold but very doable and it was awesome fun to just get out and go for it.

Monday, drove all the way up to the Icefields, past the Info Centre and to the Curtain Call. The Call wasn't inn but Chris Gooliaff and I did a couple of routes beside it to the right. Excellent day again, awesome early season fun.

Going out tomorrow and the day after to look for more ice and then we will see how things are shaping up for Halloween this weekend.

No work today

2009-10-20T17:04:00.003-06:00

Poppy, the puppy!!!

So Erin and I went for a hike up to the Playground! First time there so the route-finding was tricky but at least it was puking snow!!! I just love route descriptions that make almost no sense!
The family together, Poppy, Erin and Friðjón

Went to the Vsion climbing gym yesterday night, haven't been there for a year and a half! It was pretty good and got pumped silly...maybe even beyond silly?

Erin and Poppy playing in the snow!

But, finally I have some pics of our great little puppy, Poppy! She has gained 10 kgs in less than 2 months. Like I mentioned in a blog before, she had spent 2 months out of her whole life in a vets kennal b/c of her broken femur! Now she has spent more than 60% of her life outside of it and her progress is amazing. I just love that little Poppy

She likes to sleep...that is good for the recovery!

Changing seasons...again

2009-10-19T15:59:00.004-06:00

Yeah, that's the look on my face these days as the ice melts away again. Erin, Becca and James went ice climbing on Thursday! I went rock climbing yesterday. IN MY SHORT-SLEEVE SHIRT FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!!! Oh well

I was going to go to the Playground today that has pure dry tooling routes ranging from M5 to M11´ish. But when I steeped outside it started to rain...and now its frigging dry again! Goes to show that the Icelandic saying "Maður beilar ekki á malbikinu!!!" is pretty accurate (it means something like "A man doesn't bail on the asphalt!!!" LOL

So I just came in from the garage. I am PUMPED!!! I will have to post some pics at some point of the tricks that I use to do climbing specific exercises, it seem to work well but it will never replace climbing, that's for sure!

Like I said before, Erin has 2 weeks off and now we are into the second one so time is running out for us to do stuff as I have to go back to work tomorrow! Oh well, life doesn't always give us a break...not very often at all. Maybe a lot? Depends on how you look at it! Is the glass half...

Can´t complain though as Canmore is one sweet spot to live in. Soon there will be plethora of ice/mixed routes to do and the problem then will be; what should we climb, Ghost, Weeping Wall, Bow, K-Country, etc etc. What style?;mixed, ice, alpine, etc etc

What a wonderful life.

So this is me now after a bit of ranting and raving!!!

Impatient Patient

2009-10-11T13:17:00.004-06:00

Climbing at Grassi when the pipes leaked in the good ol days, The Overhang M6

Its so frigging cold right now for this time of year but the ice is just still not there...so close though! Its a long weekend right now and we don't have our car as its in the shop for repair, it sucks right now as I am itching to do something!

IcyBC in Marble Canyon, WI5

Forecast doesn't show any hope of a few more days on the rock (maybe if I have a fire by the base of the routes to keep from freezing) and it looks miserable almost in any driving distance for us next week...if we get the car back!!!

Swank M8, first mixed route I did of the season 2005/2006

Two days in a row I have been sitting inside watching climbing videos and then going on You Tube to watch some more, I am psyched for this winter to start and super motivated to get some routes done this year. The hit-list is big

Some M6/7

Look up Sonnie Trotters campus-training video on YouTube to get motivated!

M6/7

Here above are some ice shots from the past years to get in the groove...

Winter

2009-10-08T18:39:00.003-06:00

Good ´ol Massy´s in Field B.C.

Feels like it has arrived! I was working today and all of a sudden at 2 o´clock it started puking snow, ca 3 cm´s per hour!!! It was great.

Not sure what it is about landscaping but my lips always go super dry, no matter if I am drinking around 3 liters of liquid a day! Huh.

I kind of don't like the "in between" season of the fall and the winter. I get so stoked on the winter but its always premature. I have to pace myself a lot! So far I am doing good as I am just staying focused on training for the winter instead of just waiting for it with hope.

So far I have mostly been doing fingerboard training but also spend lots of time hanging on my ice tools to get my hands used to them again!

Right now the world is white outside my window and its been cold here in C-more (AKA Canmore) for a few days...even talk about ice being formed here and there but I say its still 2 weeks until full-on ice time! So training it is!

For good motivation, check out Dave Macleod web site. He knows how to trainPart of the hit list for this winter!!! The Suffer Machine on the Stanley Head Wall

I feel it in my fingers...

2009-09-30T11:23:00.004-06:00

Cold bouldering on the SW-tip of Iceland

winter is coming! Its getting colder here every night and the days are getting shorter and shorter.

I am hoping to get some work here soon to make some extra cash for the family, things are tight as it is.

Erin on home made ice in Iceland!

Been spending time here at home with Poppy and we have been re-arranging stuff after the move-inn! Yesterday we had loads of fun hanging all kinds of climbing stuff on the garage walls and then organizing other stuff in bins and barrels! I think we should have enough ice screws for the winter. Now I just need to start sharpening my tools to get ready to rumble! Plan is to do A LOT of ice this year and the plan is to start the season with a vengeance!!!

Bring it on

Hopes and Expectations

2009-09-27T17:31:00.002-06:00

H´s and E´s! Everyone should always have some and strive to full fill them as much as possible and as much as it is reasonable!!! My Hopes were to take two exams this year but as usual there were a few obstacles in the way; cash flow, time, work, etc. but we made it work and got it done. The Expectations were to at least pass one of them, that would make me happy, and hope to pass both...which would make me ecstatic!!! So I am ecstatic right now!

Now, some new H´s and E´s. I am really hoping my parents will come over the holidays (and it looks like they will), hope they like Poppy as much as we do, hope that Erin and I get to do much more activities in the mountains together this winter, hope to climb lots of WI5´s and harder this year, hope to work in Iceland/Greenland in the spring, etc etc. It´s easy to dream but if you only dream about things than they will, more than likely, not happen! You have to pursue them!

I look like a ghost right now after 7 days straight of intense migraine attacks! I went to the doctor on Wednesday morning but all I got was some drugs for anti-depression! But in "smaller" doses!!! I took one of those pills and I could not get out of bed until at 1720 the day after I took that! Screw that! Took matters in my own hands and I am getting better and the head aches are almost gone. Going natural is always better!!!!

The new place is awesome! Erin, Poppy and I are loving it to the fullest. No noise from above, we can invite friends over when we want without going on a guilt trip about it, etc. James and Rebeca have moved in as well and I think we are already one big family here and the winter will be a lot of fun!

Talking about ice climbing; coming home from work today I saw routes like the Replicant starting to form...yeeehhaaaaaaa

Enough for now

The Longest Day

2009-09-21T23:03:00.003-06:00

Erin, my wife and biggest supporter in all this guiding game stuff. I can not put to words how important her support is to me! I love you Erin!!!

I got an E-mail from the guides office on Saturday that the results for this rock exam would be in today (Monday).

There was no way I could stay in the house all day looking at my E-mails to see if i passed or not!!! So Erin and I took Poppy to the base of Yamnuska. Like I said before, I wanted/needed to do 4 more routes on Yamnuska to complete my summer...so I did 4 routes today!!!

Hurrying back to the house to look at my E-mail, there was nothing! 18hr came around the corner and still nothing. I started seeing E-mails from my fellow students complaining about not seeing anything so I wasn't the only one waiting!

Finally at almost 21hrs i got he E-mail...I passed it!!! What a relief. I cant believe that I got through! Not sure that I deserved it?

Anyway, I am so focused right now on my systems and stuff that I think I should be fine in the future!

Now, its time to train hard for the alpine program!

Well, or actually focus on moving tomorrow and the next day!

L8R

Life Is Good

Fridjon training for his alpine program! The photographers name has been hidden for personal reasons!!!

Reflections

2009-09-15T10:32:00.003-06:00

Time to be less selfish and do what the misses wants to do!

Time to trace back parts of this summer!

As I write this my fingers are tender and and I crave calories....lots of them!

I finished the asst rock exam yesterday and won't know if I passed until 2 weeks from now! It could go either way as I made some stupid stress related mistakes during the 8 day exam. We´ll see what happens but either way it was a great exam and if I have to repeat it, then I will come back way stronger than ever!!!

So Euro it hurts

The road to this point was fun but not always easy; I have climbed Yamnuska 11 times this summer, EEOR 6 times, Ha Ling once along the Sisyphus ending, Guides Rock once, Nanny Goat twice by 3 different routes, and endless shorter climbs from 1 pitch to 8 pitches!!!

All this along with working up in the Icefields. What a life!!! Can´t complain at all.

After all this, its still time to climb as the weather here is amazing! Now its time to do what Erin wants to do and time to get the alpine training rolling!!! I still plan on at least 4 routes on Yamnuska before the summer is over as well as two more on EEOR! Yeah, maybe I am a bit crazy but I do love this stuff!!!

Today, just eat, sleep, walk to puppy, eat, sleep, watch TV/movie, eat, play PS2, eat, etc.

Pura Vida

Climb, must climb!!!!

Getting close to the end

2009-09-12T19:27:00.003-06:00

Looking up to the last pitch of Grillmaiers Chimneys!

Hmmm, I did 3 days in a row on Yamnuska, on the asst rock exam (Red Shirt, Grillmaiers and Kahl wall). Short day today as we only did Raptor (220 meters of 10c) and Geriatric combined with a part of True Grit (a 5.8 route mixed with 10a) on EEOR...and I ended up leading a rope on every single pitch, which is not the norm!

Climbing a "guides" route tomorrow called Deception! Supposed to be easy and well retrofitted for guiding, so we will see i guess.

Fingers are getting sore but the will to keep going is always there!!!

Update

2009-09-09T19:38:00.002-06:00

So, finished day three today of the 8 day ACMG exam!

Yesterday was not so good...not so good at all!!! I didn´t get sent home so that is a good thing but I have to be careful not to make more mistakes. It doesn't take much to screw up!

Today I did Red Shirt on Yamnuska which goes at 5.8ish and we did 5 of the first pithces. After that we did a technical descent off the route Dreambed! It went well today so I am a bit happier!

Well, busy! More later

One day down....Seven to go

2009-09-07T19:58:00.002-06:00

Back of the Lake last year with Mike and Fraser

Started the asst rock guide exam today with the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG)! And yes, the forecast was for cold weather with -1°C windchill today, a bit nippy!!!

With snow on the mountain tops we went to do our climb-off, which is where we show that we are at the standard. a bit cold but it all went well. We also did a test on improvised rope rescue where we have to be at a demonstration standard to pass!

I started a bit shaky on the climbs due to a little stress but pulled them all off in a good manner! Also did well on my rescue scenario! So that is out of the way now.

Tomorrow we will go to Lake Louise to show that we can do routes where we place our own gear along with a tandem lower, stacked rappel and some rope ascending/descending techniques!

Examiners are Todd Guynn, Carl Johnston and Steve Holetzy (I think I am spelling his name right...these foreigners have funny names here in Canada).

More later.

Crossguards!

2009-09-02T09:09:00.003-06:00

On the Waterfall Wall in Heart Creek!

Those people that guard the crosswalks for the kids...they are nothing but glorified midget wranglers!!! I thought that was funny, it was in a movie I saw last night after I got home from work.

I woun´t be back to work for over three weeks now as the asst. rock guide exam is starting this coming Monday. So for the next few days I will be climbing and doing lots of rope practices! Not too much as I don´t want to be burned out during the exam.

The good ´ol classic Ha Ling NE Face.

Again, this exam takes 8 days in total and covers A LOT of material that deals with fairly complex guiding scenarios! But it should be fun and the goal is to learn as much as possible and of course, hopefully pass it as well.

Its been a great summer for climbing and I think/feel that I have come a long way, especially in regards to client care in the vertical world!

Erin and I are moving yet again and have found this amazing place here in Canmore. Its beautiful!

Anyhoo, got to go and do a few routes today! Tough life I know!!!

So

2009-08-29T19:29:00.002-06:00

Poppy is the most adorable puppy ever!!! So cute

But, no photos as my cameras battery has died a while ago and my computer can´t handle any video programs! Sorry

Doddi showed up a few days ago just before going to Kamloops for the TRU program! He wanted to get into shape for the rock climbing part so that was perfect for me as my ACMG asst rock exam is coming up soon! We did 2 days on Tunnel mountain, 1 in Lake Louise and 1 on Cascade Mountain (Mothers Day Buttress). Good times except I lost my iTouch. I brought it so I didn´t have to print out a topo...that was pretty expensive for a day out on the mountain!

Anyhoo, Erin and I have to move (like I mentioned before) and already found a very nice place here in the Three Sisters area in Canmore. There are three rooms, three baths and a garage...lots of space!!!

Well, going to work tomorrow for three days and then its time off until the exam is over on the 14Th. After that, hmmm, more glacier work or going back to landscaping for a bit!

L8R

ITS A DOG!!! Time to move again...

2009-08-20T17:30:00.002-06:00

Yes, Erin and I just added a new member to our family! We are going to have a cute little puppy in our lives soon. Her name is Poppy (like the flower, you know, the Icelandic Poppy).
She is not here yet as she need to spend time in the hospital as she has a broken back leg. Its a long story. The place that we live in right now does not allow pets so we are going to move again very soon. Poppy is worth that for sure!!!
Poppy is 4 month old and is an orphan that Erin and I fell in love with and Erin has practically been living in the Vet´s office for the last few weeks as she is always visiting Poppy! So sweet
On other notes, Ryan was here for three days for climbing. He arrived late on Tuesday so we did True Grit as it has a short approach and is only 5.10c and 5 pitches. Wednesday, Ha Ling via Sisyphus ending, 5.10a 12 pitches. Today, just a shorty Less Art, More Pop 5.10b as Ryan had to head home again! I have to go to work tomorrow as well!!!
L8R

Top of the Rock

2009-08-13T14:00:00.004-06:00

Erin rocking out!

It´s been a week since my last blog and I feel I need to keep it updated! Not sure what to put in here.

Doddi, who is coming back to Canada on the 21st!, on Mt. Louis

My fingers are pretty sore from yesterdays climb´s. I climbed for ca. 11 hrs in three different areas as I knew the weather would not be so good today. I´m glad I did!!!

Ryan and Amanda came for a visit and spent one night with Erin and I, havn´t seen them in ages so it was super cool. Might go and hangout at Island Lake Lodge for Thanksgiving with them and hopefully Dill and his family will join us as well...havn´t seen him since the spring!

Plan is to go visit the Motherland as well this fall and I am not sure when I will go? Depends now on Erins availability for time off!

The assistant rock guide exam is coming up in less than a month so the heat is on again. Lots more climbing ahead in my future but most of that will be on my time off as I can do more of the rescue training while I am at work!

Feels like it´s the Fall already outside, ca. 10°C and raining. Hasn´t been a good summer so far. Maybe it will be a good fall??? Who knows

Living in the life of Luxury

2009-08-05T15:44:00.003-06:00

Erin admiring the view of the Bugaboos

Just came home this afternoon from the Bugaboos. This trip was not like the one Erin and I did in 2006 when we went in and climbed some of the world famous spires! This time we went in as guests with the company Erin works for...CMH. Heli hiking!!!

The view from our bedroom. Not too bad? The is the Houndstooth.

Interesting concept as we were flown up to treeline or above to go hiking and then get picked up later! I have to say that I absolutely loved it!

A tiny frog that I picked up in the lake by the lodge. There is no amphibian life in Iceland so I was excited about this little guy!

I did a 12 pitch climb one of the days and not having to slog up to the route and then descend forever was like a dream! I don´t care what any purist says...it was frigging fun man!!!

Earl and I on the way up the route Fisherman's Friend. Peter McPherson guided us up and gave me lots of tips for my coming exam! He is a full mountain guide.

A typical day started with a grand breakfast at 8 AM and the the flights going out at 9 AM. Pack a big lunch, hike/climb for a few hours and then fly back home at around 5 PM. Great food at 7 PM (with some beverages before and after...I was on vacation) and then sleep. Next day, repeat!

I have to say that it was a treat to go on a trip like this and not be working. Following someone else for a change. Not sure if I could do that all the time though? Maybe I just like to be in charge???

The wild flowers were in full bloom so the colors were spectacular all over in the alpine. ..what a beautiful life!!!

Exam time

2009-07-28T11:33:00.003-06:00

This pic was taken by J. Simms during the Full Ski Guides exam this past Spring in the Selkirk Lodge!

Like I mentioned before, I had to re-do one part of my ski guide exam to pass the full-meal deal. And that is what I did this morning!

I asked Erin to come along as I needed a third person for the rope team and she happily took the day off to see me stressing! Ahhh, the joys of marriage! Seriously, thanx Erin! I appreciate you support beyond words.

We picked up our examiner at Beamers (coffee shop) at 8AM and of course it was raining! Drove out to Yam Bluffs where I had to rescue Erin out of a "crevasse"! She was already on a rope and had a "broken arm". I went down to her and fixed her arm, went back up and started raising! Because she had too much breakfast I had to put in an advantage for the raising! And yet another one because Greg said I was having such a hard time!!! he he Ahh the joys of exams.

Then we ran into trouble, Erin was "stuck" at the lip of the crevasse!!! Now what? Well, I lowered her ca 2m and then put her back in the raise and the rest is history.

It was a good morning and things went well! Needless to say there is always more to learn and one can never stop practising!

L8R

Life is good...as always

2009-07-25T19:55:00.002-06:00

It´s nice to think of work as a place to go to to get some rest after a full on climbing spree!

I blogged about what I did before going to work last time so no need to talk shop there.

I took 2 rest nights at work but on my last night up there I could not sit any more. Bursting with energy and starting to be waaaayyyyy to squirrely

Went to the small area of Phantom Falls and sent all the routes there...5.9, 11a/b and the 11c/d! The cool thing is that I was so determined to not do anything at work that I left all the climbing gear at home and only had my work harness and my comfy climbing shoes (I use those for routes no harder than 5.8´s usually). I was stoked to send that night.

That place is so spectacular to climb in that it doesn´t matter if the routes would suck or not (they don´t), its mindbogglingly!

I also went on a walk about to scout out new routes and man oh man...did I ever find lots of potential for new-routing, I feel like a kid in a candy store and can´t wait for my next shift with a hammer drill in hand and a plethora of bolts to put in!!!

Confessions of a serial climber

2009-07-21T19:25:00.002-06:00

Yep, you can say that's what I am becoming! A serial climber!!! In chronicle order since the last posting:
The day after the last posting I went up Forbidden Corner again, this time with Crish Gooliaff, a fellow exam candidate! We swapped leads and had a great day on the sustained long Yam route!
Monday, it rained but I went and did improvised rope rescue with Josh, another exam candidate, to keep things fresh!
Tuesday to Friday, work!
Saturday, climbed Econoline on EEOR with my sweet Erin. Its a 7 pitch 5.10a that goes on a mix of gear and bolts. Very good route that I will definitely do again!!! Summer is here for sure and I could tell as Erin only had on her tank-top the whole time...and of course some pants!!!
Sunday, Red Shirt with Crish. This 270m route on Yam has a reputation for being extremal greasy and the big surprise was that most of the grease is100% rat shit!!! If you go do this route, then take along a little bottle of hand sanitizer as the urge to put your hand on your face is overwhelming at some time points!!! Good route over all though!
Monday (yesterday), climbed The Bowl on Yam! It goes at 5.10b/c and is sustained almost the whole way! I did it with Crish and Scott came along as well (yet another exam candidate). I ended up leading everything due to a few factors so I got good two client guiding day out of it! Lots of thinking for ropes and some cool rope tricks as well!!! Make sure you are strong at the grade and don't forget your route finding skills at home! Another good Yam route!!!
And Now I am back at work for a few days and the plan is to get my crevasse rescue scenario over with on the 27th of this month. If I pass that I will be able to call myself a fully certified ski guide with the ACMG! NO PRESSURE!!!

KUHL

2009-07-11T18:54:00.002-06:00

So, got back from work last Thursday night! After the secret quartzite area and Parker ridge, I went on to explore some more ridges and stuff the evening after! So much to do up there!!!

Friday I was going to do Generosity on EEOR with Bernie but the weather was so and so! So we headed to Lake Louise instead for a day of cragging. I on sighted 2 11b´s and did 2 11a´s as well (one of them that I havn´t done before) as well as some 10´s for warm-ups (never did Rolling Stone before so that was a pretty good score on sight as well on gear!)

No rest for the wicked! Erin was getting "cabin fever" so we had to get amongst it today as well. Well, we blasted up this cool route on Guides Rock called "Paperchase" that goes at 11a on both bolts and gear...the 11a part has to be protected by gear so that was super cool. The whole route has very nice exposure and the fact that I got to do it with my sweety was the best part!!! Ah, love my wife!!!

Life in the fast lane

2009-07-06T23:10:00.002-06:00

Yup, did Corkscrew with Josh Smith last Thursday. It goes at 5.12a or 5.8 A0...and yes, we did it at the A0 grade. Its a classic exam route for the guides course so it had to be done!
Doing a route like that free is not only hard but kind of insane as the bolt ladder is ca 40 years old!! If I was on sighting 12's then I would not do that on this route! Its scary enough to put your weight on those old bolts instead of chancing a fall on them!!! Excellent route and again, as always for Yamnuska, those that put up the route had some strong head space!

Guiding: we spend a lot of money and time to get qualified to take people out and do all the worrying for them! Guests spend alot of $$$ to go out skiing/climbing and not having to train to much for it and therefor not having to think about hazards! Might seem silly to do some things that you see guides do but it all makes perfect sense if you think about it. I can honestly say that if I was going to do my first heart transplant that I would screw up in the most simple areas (simple to the surgeon).

At work right now, went and hiked to the Parker slabs after my toure! Found 4 bolted slab heavens! Potential for way more. Also looked at some very intimidating quartzite area that only has a hand full of routes. Man, us humans are so small! Int eh presence of great natural features, you feel small!!!

Hung out with some cool marmots as well after work...just them and I

Enough for now

Science Friction

2009-07-01T12:03:00.003-06:00

EEOR is the wall on the left side of the pic! EEOR´s Tail goes up just to the left of the big wall. 355m of good climbing with generally good rock!

Back from work again. Full on winter at the Icefields this time, it was snowing most of the day yesterday and full on storm 2 days prior to that! Have to remember that it is 2.000m and above up there!!!

Hiked up Boundary Peak Monday night, good 1hr to the top, think it is close to 3.000m, The view from the summit is spectacular of Hilda, A2, Athabasca, Dome, Kitchen, etc. Good after dinner hike!!!

Athabasca from the info centre

Did an attempt on EEOR´s Tail last Thursday but got rained away even before getting on it so Bernie and I did it on Friday! Excellent route with a bit of route finding skills! Recommended it to those interested (I made a topo for it for those keen). The grade is 5.8 but I would say you have to be VERY comfy on that grade as the moves can be tricky and there is some cool exposure!!!

Well, going out for a hike in the Spray Lakes area. L8R