CLIMBINGELVISES

Fall gardening

2011-11-03T19:10:00.004-06:00

Cleaning off bad rock and LOTS of moss

Besides raking leaves and the usual fall stuff, I went out with Fraser to find a small crag somewhere for some dry-tooling (hopefully it will have some ice there too later in the winter).
We found a crag and are now cleaning all the moss away and figuring out where to place bolts and all that stuff.
This takes a lot of work and every time we go out, we smell like tree's!
There will be more to come

Of course we have to try it all out on top rope before placing pro

Waterworld

2011-10-19T13:22:00.000-06:00

Amazing climbing by Revelstoke, B.C. 2 hrs house-to-house. Not very good filming as I had the camera on my head for the first time ever rock climbing...keeps hitting the wall and half way down it started filling with condensation as you see.
Awesome fun on a bolted multi pitch 5.11a

No secretes to living, just do it...

2011-10-10T11:24:00.003-06:00

Ahhh, back in Revelstoke after having been away since September. So good to be back in the arms of the family.

Just under the President col working our way through the bergschrund and other crevasses

Last week was super fun. Working with the College of the Rockies (Golden) up in the Little Yoho Valley in Yoho National Park. We stayed in the Stanley Mitchell hut and actually had it all to ourselves except for the last night when two guys came for the Thanks Giving weekend, they were cool and fun to talk to.

Stanley Mitchell hut the morning we left for home

We were teaching a course for advanced mountaineering to 8 studends that were super keen. Covering everything up to navigation in white-outs, crevasse rescue, etc. We managed to climb something pretty much everyday and got up Isolated Peak, MacArthur, the President, etc.

Isolated Peak and MacArthur seen from the Iceline trail Saturday morning

Looking like a busy winter ahead with CMH along with some other cool ice work but now its time to recover and relax here in Revy.

ArcticHeliSkiing and BergmenMountainGuides

2011-09-19T13:30:00.001-06:00

Ahhh, sometimes it's nice to live a little bit in the past. This will become the now in the future though if that makes sense to you!?!
Going back to the Colombia Icefileds tomorrow for a week and a half of glacier work. Then it's another week of work with a group of kids at the Stanley Mitchell hut in Yoho National Park. Can't wait

Time to relax

2011-09-06T09:40:00.003-06:00

Ian Jackson and myself on Bugaboo Spire on a fine day. We both passed;-)

Results are inn. I passed my asst. alpine exam. YEAH! This means that I have passed every exam so far and only have one left to go but that will happen in two years or so.

Now the mission is to do as much alpine work as possible in the summers and also some alpine/ice work in the winters.
Ah, what a relieve.

It was a good exam with good weather, good conditions and good people! Definitely made some good friends on this one.

Now its back to work at the Icefileds for 2 more weeks this season. Hopefully some work in October and November will show up.

Skiing in Iceland with Arcticheliskiing

2011-08-31T17:04:00.001-06:00

Getting bored sitting around after the 10 day exam. If I don't do anything then I will go crazy as the results will take up to 3 weeks to be published. That's why I made this little trailer! More to come.
Going this weekend with Erin and her friends to Penticton. There they are doing a triathlon and I will be their support. The day after we are doing a wine tour. Think we are touring 4 different areas...should be fun as nobody has to drive.
Wish me luck

ACMG Vacation

2011-08-29T18:22:00.004-06:00

Fridjon short-roping on Unknown Peak

Just finished a course of alpine guiding. If you would take a normal client on a trip like we did then you would put him/her to the ground. It's hard work!

Just before getting to the bergschrund on Victoria South

Objectives that we did; In the Bugaboos, Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire, Brenta Spire, Marmolata Peak. In Lake Louise, Victoria North, Victoria South, Unknown Peak, Aberdeen, Mount Louis (Kain route), Castle Mountain (Brewers, Eisenhower), Fay and Mount Little!

Normal routes on Lefroy

Looking down from close to the top of Mount Louise

Big week and a half

Fridjon working hard close to 3.000meters

Alpine Climbing in Rogers Pass Canada

2011-08-17T11:33:00.000-06:00

A short day of alpine climbing in Rogers Pass, Selkirk Mountains, Canada. Rogers Peak is just under 3.200m

2011-08-15T20:46:00.000-06:00

In the alpine all the time

2011-08-15T13:53:00.004-06:00

Fridjon using the "bionic" hand for extra security while looking ahead for upcoming terrain on Mt Tupper, Rogers Pass

Went up the Perren ledges yesterday to the Neil Colgan hut and down the Scheisser ledges. Felt so tired as it's been full-on for 9 days until now. Time to take a few days off for rest and final preparation for the assistant alpine exam.

Poser!!!!

Heading up into the Bugaboo Provincial Park on Saturday. First objective is the famous Kain route on the Bugaboo Spire and the day after maybe the NE ridge of the same mountain. After that there will be some more fun as this upcoming trip is 10 days in total. More on that later!

Fred tackling the "5.4" on the Perren ledges. I personally think Perren was a madman

Fred under the last rock-step before getting on the Fay glacier

Hopefully September will have some good weather to continue alpine climbing and also go and do lots of sport climbing.

Fridjon getting ready to do a quick lower on the Rogers Peak in the Selkirks.

Summer is motering along

2011-08-04T11:13:00.004-06:00

Fred and Fridjon at the summit of Tupper. Enjoying a nice day in the mountains.

Just over 2 weeks to exam time which will last for 10 days. So far I've been climbing sport routes to stay technically strong on rock, gear routes, short and long routes, alpine climbing and working.
Trevor Carter scoping out our line on the NW buttress of Eagle. It follows the black buttress on the face between the two grey-looking lines on the wall. Longer then it looks!

Alpine climbing has been in the Rogers Pass area and up in the Colombia Icefileds area. Lots of days also just getting out with a heavier pack to stay fit.
Self-portrait on the 2.804meter summit of Tupper

Some of the alpine routes so far: NW Buttress of Eagle Peak (normally alpine 5.7 but was a bit harder when it started to rain a bit), NW ridge of Athabasca (solo up a 1.000m gain with a technical descent), West ridge of Tupper, etc.
Fred coiling ropes as we descend Tupper

Erin is being very patient with me as I need lots of time away right now to be in the mountains. I will be all hers in September...if I will not be sleeping the whole month that is ;-)
Awsome" view of the summit ridge of Eagle Peak. Trevor taking in the big view

CMH Gothics

2011-07-21T19:38:00.001-06:00

A short video clip from this past winter at the CMH Gothics lodge. More to come as well from Iceland...

2011-07-10T08:56:00.002-06:00

Wow s took a look at the date of my last posting...guess I have been too busy to sit own down to write some stuff!?!
Well, I guess I was still in Iceland during my last posting. Since then I went to Sweden, back to Iceland and then found my way over to Canada (and I guess I was in England for a few hrs in there somewhere).
In Sweden I visited Stockholm, with my friend John, where another old friend, Magnus Ingi, lives now along with his family. After a week there it was time to go back to the Motherland and teach a alpine course in the ash filled mountains of Southern Iceland. The ash is not good for you when breathing hard in the alpine!
Canada was next on the list as I had to get here and train a bit for my ACMG guide training for alpine guides. I just got home from that training and will be doing the exam at the end of August. Very busy times ahead. I'll rest well in September I guess

The latest trick´s

2011-05-26T15:15:00.003-06:00

Mother nature has been showing us again that she is the boss. This volcano, Grímsvötn, is a very active volcano that hides under the mighty Vatnajökull-glacier. It erupted in 2004, 1998, 1996...you get the point!
The Elbrus trip that I organized has been cancelled but that is due to human factors. This Russian area is unstable at the moment and has been for a few months. It does not help that the border country to this part of Russia is having big riots right now where people are getting killed! Not a good time to go there right now. Later it will be.
In a few days time the direction of travel is to Sweden where there will hopefully be some climbing done. After that, back to the Motherland for a few days of work and then it´s straight to my wife's arms. Can´t wait for that

Coming to an end

2011-05-11T05:44:00.003-06:00

Waiting for the clouds to clear of the peaks so I can head out with a private group of 4 and rip up some steep slopes! It is probably my last day of heli skiing for this season. Sad day :(
I am rounding up to 3.000.000 feet/1.000.000meters for these two combined seasons (Canada and Iceland).

Now it´s time to slog up Hvannadalshnúkur, the highest peak in Iceland...again! Followed up by a fantastic ascend of Þverártindsegg and teaching an alpine course for some up and coming guides here in Iceland.

And then, time to party in Stockholm with two of my best buddies.
As well, just signed a contract with Cintamani (www.cintamani.is) which is the best out-door clothing company in Iceland...maybe in the whole world ;-) There I will be part of their product testing team along with other things.

Pura Vida

The Good Life

2011-05-01T07:13:00.003-06:00

Chilling in Reykjavik as we speak with John. Should get some time in with the family as well.
It´s been busy since the last post. I guided a group of 12 women for 8 days. That was an adventure all in it self. Super fun.
Immediately after that it was back to heli skiing. Skiing has been awesome and one of these days I´ll get around to editing some video and pictures to put up here!
Mai first in Reykjavik and it´s puking down snow!!!
Pura Vida

A day off

2011-04-14T10:52:00.002-06:00

First day off out of the two for the month of April. Woke up to wax a few pairs of skis. Into the office to deal with logistics for the upcoming trip to Elbrus, Russia. And then...go "hang" out in the "rec"room!

The business end of the Barn. Love the bike!

JB, AKA the BOSS, at our cozy guides office in Skíðadalur (Valley of ski)

Drytooling at the Barn to get fit for the alpine season this coming summer

and just regular bouldering as well

In the Motherland

2011-04-09T09:29:00.003-06:00

Welcome to Heliskiing in Iceland. One of the most exciting places on this planet to go heli skiing. Arctic Heliskiing

I made it back to Iceland last Friday, April 1st. After a quick visit with friends and family I flew straight to the northern part of Iceland where Arctic Heliskiing and BergmennMountainguides (AHS and BMG) have their headquarters.

A regroup on a run no one has ever skied before..one of 13 first descents that day!

First business was a private week with a Russian group. Even after skiing over half a million vertical meters in Canada this season I still got soar muscles after skiing with the Russians...it was a lot of skiing and very fast as well. Finally a good challenge! It was awesome...

Owner/chief guide of Arctic Heli and Bergmenn MountainGuides...Jökull Bergmann

Today, we get another two groups coming for a few days of heli skiing. Can´t wait.
The trip to Elbrus in Russia is full on right now with lots of organizing and the closer we get to it, the more excited I get!

Looking at a new landing in the 4.000 square km terrain we have

It is still super unreal to be at a farm with chickens and sheep houses surrounding the helicopter. But man, this is also an unreal place to be heli-skiing. You should try it!

Upcoming trips with CE

2011-03-28T19:09:00.003-06:00

Elbrus. One of the Seven Summits. In a few days I will be packing my bags on going on a quarter of a year guiding voyage. Majority of the guiding will be in Northern Iceland where I work with JB and his companies Arctic Heliskiing (AHS) and BergmennMountainguides (BMG). There will be heli-skiing in an awesome location with incredible skiing (http://www.arcticheliskiing.com/en/page/the_programs). I feel privileged to be able to work there! And there will also be very cool ski touring in some awe inspiring terrain (http://www.bergmenn.com/en/mos/viewProductGroup/2/) In June I will be in Russia to climb the highest mountain there, Elbrus. Its one of the seven summits and there is still room available if you are interested! E-mail me at topoftherock@gmail.com for info I am super excited to go but at the same time sad as I leave my wife Erin and dog Poppy for such a long time! More to come on these adventures as they happen Pura Vida

What a life

2011-03-26T12:38:00.003-06:00

Róbert Þór and myself on the summit of Young´s Peak. What a view

My back is in fine form these days. I reached 1.5million vertical feet last week at work and it keeps adding on...my ski season ends more than two months from now so who knows how much it will be in the end.

Self portrait on the run Morning star

Skiing isn't about the quantity, its about the quality! And these past three days I spent ski touring with Róbert Þór. We skied Little Sifton traverse to start with, then the classic Lilly traverse and ended the trip yesterday with the ultra classic Young's Peak traverse. The weather was amazing.

The helicopter coming to pick us up and put us on top of yet another run

Lots of vertical is fun too and there have been a few weeks where we have groups really wanting to reach 200.000 feet in one week! The thighs are like tree truncks right now.

One more week here before going to the Motherland and skiing there but right now its relax time with Erin and Poppy. Erin's 30Th B-day tomorrow so there should be some festivities soon.

Ski Ya L8R

Always time for a good fire after a good day of skiing

On we go...

2011-03-04T19:36:00.002-07:00

OK, since the last post I have gone through more physio and acupuncture and the back is getting way better. So back to work I go tomorrow for the last two weeks of CMH heli-skiing this winter. After that I have a week off to hang out with Erin and Poppy. Its Erin's 30th Birthday during that time off so we will spend some good time together.

Right after that I go away for two and a half month! Going to Iceland to see friends and family as well as some heli-skiing, ski touring (including a couple of touring trips of a yakt) and teaching an alpine guides course with Glacier Guides (http://www.glacierguides.com/). Should be fun.

In the beginning of June I will head to Russia for a trip to Elbrus if the turbulence there settles down a bit...we will see!?!

So, things are busy again and the body is healing. Bad part about all this is being away again from Erin and Poppy for this long :(

A milestone blog

2011-02-26T12:03:00.003-07:00

This is the 200th blog post that I send out on this site! Too bad its while I am off work because of an injury.

The two weeks of my last shift we skied 105.000 meters...with the regular groups! Pretty good eH! At some point late last week I pinched some nerves in my back/neck or something like that which resulted in a lot of pain. Not sharp pain but just constant pain that keeps you from doing anything, including sleep. So I didn´t sleep more than 3-4 hrs a night from Wednesday last week until early this week. So of course I got sick this week to with the lack of sleep.

I went to a doctor but the main thing was seeing my friend Fraser who is a physio-therapist and does acupuncture. I'm not sure how many needles he has put into me so far but its working. Getting better every day. Ultrasound is helping lots too along with rest.

Until next time

Recovery time

2011-02-20T11:40:00.004-07:00

Doug and Geoff creating the finest restaurant in the Selkirks

Yes, recovery time! I am home early this time (one week ahead of schedule) as I hurt my back badly this past week. Sounds like a rib has decided to move a tad and cause me some serious pain. Oh well. Shouldn't be too hard to move it back in???
A group enjoys another fantasic run on "Morning Star"

The past two weeks have been awesome. Good skiing and pretty good stability. The first week we skied 60.000 meters and the second one close to 45.000 meters. Like I said in the past, its super fun but it is hard work doing this all the time.

Can you spot the 212 (its a helicopter) in the photo? The biggest mountain in the Selkirk range is in the background, Sir Sanford

Now I am home with Erin and Poppy. Which is good, to bad I am useless right now. Time for a physio tonight and the doc tomorrow. Lets see what they say what is wrong?!?

Yeah

Time to recover and start putting the final pieces together for the Elbrus trip in June.

A FEW MORE PICTURES FROM GIMLI, VALHALLAS and Goosberrie and CMH work

2011-02-04T14:11:00.003-07:00

One of my ALL-Time favorites of the summer. Ryan and myself climbing the awesome ridge of Mt Gimli. AWESOME

Ryan having a nice quiet moment looking over the Valhallas

Looking down the second crux. Did I say this route is AWESOME

Self-portrait at work with CMH

Erin coming up the last pitch of Gooseberry, Banff.

Powder Pigs, Spanish Armada and the Red Army

2011-01-31T11:37:00.005-07:00

Skiing under the icefall on "Cream de la Cream"

This one week turned into two weeks of work. When I showed up at the CMH Gothics on the 15Th of Jan for one week of work I was told that I was going to the Adamants the week after...well, 4 days later it had changed back to another week at the Gothics. You confused yet? I was!

Spanish Armada, Enrique Jr smiling on the run Quasimodo

First week was with a mix of people but the more memorable were the Powder Pigs, a group of older gentlemen from the US that have been coming to ski with us since the late 70´s...basically since I was born. Super fun guys that love being in the mountains.

Juan and Bao having fun. Always fun to ski with good telemarkers like Juan

Second week was a mix of people from Spain and Hong Kong (the Armada and the Red Army!!!). Also very fun and a few of those guests reached their million foot suites. One of the Spaniards even reached his 6 million foot suite!!! Amazing

Azu ripping it up

This past week I celebrated my birthday at the lodge. It was fun but I missed Erin :( Otherwise, deep deep powder this past shift. So many times a day where I thought to myself "It is truly retarded that I get payed for this work"

The guiding hand. Friðjón leading the way

Gone heli-skiing for a week

2011-01-15T07:56:00.001-07:00

Happy New Year

2011-01-13T14:57:00.003-07:00

Wow, its been forever since my last post! It´s been crazy busy too.

Hmm, since the last one I have been heli skiing a lot (between X-mas and New Years it rounded up to ca 70.000-80.000 meters), lots of ice climbing and some ski touring. And now finally chilling with my two honeys...Erin and Poppy ;-)

Nothing crazy I would say in the ice climbing depertment, Weeping Wall WI4-5, Louise Falls WI4+, Guiness Gully WI4, Professors, Rogans, etc etc Part of all this was the ice climbing component of the ACMG adventure and that went really well. Super fun of course since it all went well.

The new year has been good so far. Been off since last Saturday and had some quality time with Erin, which is well deserved. The new place here in Revelstoke is starting to grow on me but I haven't been here that much to be honest.

Heli season keeps going and it is snowing like crazy right now and its gone keep coming for a while. Bookings are trickling in with Arctic Heli Skiing as well and I am getting phcyced for that. Also have a trip to Russia with a few folks coming up and that should be fun! Rumors of Greenland are heard here and there but I am sometimes a mushroom...kept in the dark and fed s%&/

Cool, enough for now.

Keep on trucking

Winter arrived

2010-11-27T15:39:00.002-07:00

Yeah, I know. Work sucks

Writing this from the CMH Monashees lodge and already been up in the snow for two days heliskiing. What a life. Also went for two days of ski touring last weekend up at Rogers Pass.

Not much to report right now as there isn't much time for it. Busy going through guides training and reviewing things that we can improve on as guides.

Later

New Place, New Start...in a way

2010-11-12T17:18:00.003-07:00

Erin, Poppy and i are now officially living in Revelstoke B.C. It has been a lot of back and forth recently and we still have to go to Canmore for one more week before the month is over. Erin has work with CMH in Banff and I have to attend staff training with the University of Calgary...and of course go ice climbing to get ready for the guides ice courses!

Hanging out at Dave's house right now for a while and then moving into a house that belongs to Miles and Chris. Looks good

It's looking like this winter will be extremely busy and that will continue until September next year actually.

Guiding here this winter along with loads of training for the alpine program, Iceland for mountain work in the spring and then Russia for at least 2 weeks...then its mid June already!

Well, here we are and here we will keep going from, smiling at life

Going "nuts"

2010-10-15T11:24:00.004-06:00

Friðjón

Yes, it that time again. I am running out of nuts! That will be the type of nuts that you need for "clean" protection in climbing, in case some of you nuts were wondering!!! Now the question is, what should I get? I have throughout my climbing time used Black Diamond Stoppers and I have to say that they definitely do the trick. I am always keen to hear about other stuff out there so if you have an opinion, let me know. Otherwise, its back to good ´ol BD stoppers.

Erin

Yesterday reached 20°C. Climbing conditions were perfect...I think? I had a job interview in Calgary. Drove in there and looked for the address I was given for two and a half hours!!! The phone number I was given was not reachable for me either. So I gave up and drove back to Canmore after wasting the perfect day on nothing. But at least when I got back home, there was a message from the employer that he had mistakenly given me the wring address...perfect. At least its snowing today!!!

Bernie

Weather is supposed to get warmish again so my hopes are up on the fact that there is still rock season left before the tools dominate the climbing style.

Friðjón

Have a good one

Squeesing up the last meters on the Grand Sentinel

Slab climbing, got to love it

2010-10-13T15:01:00.003-06:00

That's right! You should love slab climbing. Most climbers I know love steep rock with obvious holds. You mention slab to them and you can literally see their eyes go wide and the hair of the back of their necks go straight!!! Slab goes down with words like "choss" for most folks. They just don't like it.

Climbing slab in the Bow Valley. Look at the friction in that rock!

Well, I say say bring it on. One should strive to be competent in all discipline of climbing. Slab make you be in control. Be delicate. Have mind control! Trust your feet!!!

Climbing slab in Squamish.

Now go out and make yourself uncomfortable and I promise you that you will feel better about yourself after it.

EEOR

2010-10-13T13:07:00.004-06:00

Erin coming up past the crux of the North Ridge of EEOR. 5.8, very nice pitch!

East End Of Rundle. Great to have this wall right above town! Up to 650m long routes on that face ranging from 5.5 to 5.11+...as far as I know anyway.

Looking ahead for what is coming up at the start of the route.

Cozy couple. Erin Fiddick and Friðjón

We did the North Ridge on Friday. It´s 9 pitches of good fun climbing at 5.8 and here are some pictures from the day.

At the top of the technical climbing, now some short roping coming up

The airy view down to the belay on pitch 3

Also looked at a new area here in the Bow Valley. Its not in any guide book yet but what caught my eye was the title "Shortest approach in the Canadian Rockies". And man, is it ever short. It has all bolted routes ranging from 5.8 - 5.11a/b. Technical and slabby, so stay away! I am sure it will be greased out as soon as it gets into the guide books!!!

Open again

2010-10-05T09:05:00.005-06:00

Kai stepping over the seracs after topping out on "Middle Earth"

On Sunday I had the pleasure of climbing a route on Mount Andromeda with Barry Blanchard and his client. We did a route in the "Practice Gully" area that is called Middle Earth. Practice gullies is not a great name for this area as the name implies something different than what it is! Its good fun alpine climbing there!!!

Kai climbing towards the bergschrund

We started with a classic sub-alpine start. Woke up at 04:00 and were walking at 05:00. It stays dark here now until 07:30 so no real need to start earlier and climb in the dark!!!

I had a great time and learned some cool new tricks.

Barry on top

After a good day out we blasted back to Canmore.

Barry getting close to the top of the route. The seracs look very small from here.

Today, its time for shorts and clipping bolts in the sun

Sorry! We are closed for now...

2010-10-02T13:16:00.002-06:00

Gone climbing until after the weekend :=)

Train the brain and the body will follow...

2010-09-30T12:13:00.003-06:00

The Viking shop "Islendingur"

Its so true. Mind over matter is really what counts! We can never be perfect but we should always strive to be perfect. Even if you can not be perfect then going for the unattainable goal of perfection will lead you toward self-mastery.

Self-mastery is key. Don´t worry about what others are doing better or worse. Don´t compare yourself to others! The key to self-mastery is not being afraid of yourself, of who you are. Ultimately, that is the key to bravery: not being afraid of yourself. When you are no longer afraid of being who you are, you start acting from integrity and authenticity! I am working on my fears these days...

What you think and do hold hand-in-hand. The mind is powerful so use it accordingly. Picture yourself succeeding in your goals and it will more than likely go that way! You can literally think yourself to success or failure.

Even if you fail, then it was worth the effort! It can be a big obstacle to overcome just to go and try something that you fear. We are defined more by how we react to adversity than then we are by the ultimate outcome, be it a success or failure.

"You´re important. Relax and enjoy yourself." Vinnie the Pooh

A season ends, another starts

2010-09-28T16:52:00.005-06:00

A strenuous M8

After tomorrow I will be going into the alpine somewhere for 4 days. Its been an unstable fall so far, so we will see what will be done! I will do a follow up after the weekend on that with some words and pictures.

Erin motoring up in the alpine

I sent in my application for the alpine program with the ACMG. If I do get accepted then that marks the beginning of my last discipline in the UIAGM process!!! I am highly motivated right now for it, so I say "Bring it on"!

Bring it on! winter is coming...Friðjón in Haffner

Its time to move again! At the end of October, Erin, Poppy and I will be gone from Canmore to Revelstoke. Erin got a good job there and is still with CMH. At the same time, it will mean less driving time for me to where ever I work in the ski season. Ski touring work is rolling in for the winter and its going to be busy as usual.

I leave Canmore with mixed emotions. I love the town and the surrounding environment. So much climbing and alpinism around here, but at the same time almost all my good friends live in Revelstoke. We havn´t even moved yet but I have an army of friends looking for the perfect place to live! What a support team and we havn´t even moved yet!!! It puts me back to the friends that I started out my adventures here in Canada.

Less climbing but way more ski touring is closer. Climbing isn´t too bad, a few crags and very good alpine climbing in Rogers Pass. It´s time for it!

Erin watching a sunset

The season at the Icefields has come to an end for me. It was OK but the only thing I can complain about is how lousy the weather was this season. Almost no rock climbing up there but a little bit of alpine climbing instead. Might go for one more season up there!

Glaciers are melting away!!!

Pictures from the past...

2010-09-20T13:02:00.003-06:00

En route to Dent du Géant (the Giants Tooth) a few years ago...good times

Went on a date with this pig...she never called back (she´s french) LOL

Helgi Magnus starting the Aréte du Rochfort on the border of France and Italy

Jumping out of a Hercules C-130 with a few Navy Seals back in the day when I was young...I could tell you about it but then I would have to...always fun to jump out at 18.000 feet

Self portrait after summiting Búrfellshyrna. We did a first ascend of a route we named Ormapartý after some strange dreams that Jökull had the night before

When is summer arriving?

2010-09-15T09:49:00.003-06:00

Nice view of Hilda Peak (on the right) and Athabasca (centre)

Just got home from 7 days of work in the mountains. Up to 30cm´s of snow in the alpine and some days were spent on the glaciers travelling very slowly probing the snow so I would not fall into a crevasse! At least it was whiteout...like walking inside of a ping pong ball!!!
Boundary Lake is always a nice spot to visit when walking the dog

Only have 5 more days of work this month and that will be it for this season up in the Colombian Icefields! Hope to find some work for October/November but if not, then its time to start hanging on the ice tools and get strong for the winter!!! That would be OK!!!

Poppy getting ready to attack Friðjón

I don´t have much to say, so I guess I have to get out and do stuff so I can put some pics in here and tell you stories!

Mount Louis...again

2010-08-27T09:24:00.003-06:00

Ryan takes the first steps away from the second anchor

Ryan, Dill and I ended our short alpine getaway with an ascent of the Gmoser Route, well, it was a variation of it anyways! Last time I did Louis it took 9hrs Banff-to-Banff but this time it took longer.

Dill rocking out on the Gmoser Route on Louis

As we popped out where the route joins the Kain route, we got "stuck" behind a slower party and ended up waiting under the Perren crack for an hour. Before that We sat half an hour lower on the route but at least we got to wait some more on the descent as well...

It slowed us down in total of ca. 3hrs so it became an 13 and a half hr day!!!

Dill and Ryan sitting on the top

Plan was to end the trip on the East Ridge of Temple but it has been snowing on all aspects above 2.700m so we skipped it this time!

A raven stares at Ryan on the summit wondering what we were up to?

Now its time to head back to work for a few days and it looks like the fall is moving into the Canadian Rockies so we will see how the fall will play out?

Ryan descending, finally, after waiting for the couple to get going!

Fun in the Rockies

2010-08-24T21:44:00.003-06:00

Erin on Lizzies Ridge

Maybe I havn´t been posting much lately but things are happening this week! Erin, Ryan and I went up Deception this Sunday, its not hard...just a 11 pitch 5.8, we got up 6 pitches before it started pissing rain! Good day...

Dill and Ryan getting close to the top of Birdwood

Monday, Dill, Ryan, Erin and I did Lizzies Ridge, a 5.7 route on Mt Birdwood. It goes just over 3.000m and is a real alpine route!

I would not recommend this route to anyone unless they realy want a long route that is not that excellent in rock quality and has a very complex descent! Alpine Select book is very, very untruthful with the description on this route...

Erin and her AMGA jacket...so cool

Today, Ryan, Dill and I did the SE ridge of Mt Fable. Its goes at 5.4 as an alpine route and is supposed to take 10-12 hours, we got it in 8 hrs with lots of rest and lunch breaks!

Sweet kiss fro my lady...Erin and Friðjón

More to come for this week...

So handsome....lol

A teaser for the coming season

2010-08-12T22:55:00.003-06:00

Heli skiing...

Forewarning for human dictionaries...I am Icelandic.

Another day at the office

Out of the 6 languages that I actually speak fairly fluently, English was the 4th one I learned, so try to pick on me in a different manner than pointing out that my english isn't perfect (You know who you are DH LOL)

Heading down "Wet Dream"

Getting pretty bored here in the hail/rain/sun/wind/calm/thunder/lightning/etc so here are a few pics from last season to get the taste buds going for this coming season! An also to remind those in New Zealand that there is better snow over here on this side of the Pond.

Cold smoke

Above the Cloudes

2010-08-07T19:23:00.003-06:00

Oman traversing into the goods

Well, didn´t end up going to the Bugaboos at all! The weather moved in for a good chunk of the week so we postponed the whole adventure...its no fun being in there when thundershowers are in the forecast every day!!!

Erin "hanging out! on Yam

Instead, did a few things around the house and went climbing with Erin, Oman and Poppy. Yesterday we got caught in a thunderstorm but sat the first one out and kept climbing only to get soaking wet later in the PM...it was awesome and I see that I really miss rock climbing a lot, need to do more this later part of the summer!

Oman sending another 11a

Today, despite a so-so forecast, we did Corkscrew on Yamnuska, 7 pitch 5.8 A1 (5.12 if you free it)! My second time on it and it was awesome.

Very good belayers at work

Some time for some business work around here. I am putting up a web page for the guiding side soon, just bought a web link, and need to print more business cards soon as the demand for them is picking up quite a lot!

Back to work tomorrow and hopefully the weather stays good as I am keen to go and giv´er...

Very sad news today. Looks like Fredrick Ericson past away on K2! He was a driven person whom I spent a few days with this spring in Iceland. High goals and I felt confident that he would do a good job of it. But the mountains are not forgiving. Hope you are in a good place Fredrick!

Poppy having a good time as usual.

On the move...somethings going backwards

2010-07-19T11:44:00.003-06:00

Erin looking at the Bugaboos from Grizzly ridge

Interesting summer so far...where I have been anyways! I havn´t gotten much climbing in as the weather hasn´t been great at any given time where I am. Last shift at the Icefields, it started with a thunderstorm and I turned around with a group after 5min on the glacier (it started puking snow at noon that day, last monday). It kept snowing for two days but at least everything was wet after the storm...so no climbing!

A little frog that lives in the lake right by the lodge

I am home now and its on and off with rain showers but I should be able to get out a bit this week. Got lots of stuff to do anyways.

The lodge

At the end of the month Erin, Poppy and I will spend some quality time at the CMH Bugaboo lodge for three days, can´t wait for that. Should be fun.

Another glorious day in the Bugaboos

Ryan and I will meet up after that, as well in the Bugaboos, for some alpine sessioning. Dill and Joe might even show up if they aren´t busy pulling wire!?!

On Pigeon Spire with the Howsers in the background

The melting of the glaciers around here are just insane. This one pole I marked last year has melted down 10meters in a year...yes, down! The glaciers aren´t just melting back but they are thinning out at an alarming rate! Start treating this planet with respect! The US meteorology office has just said this is the warmest first 6 months of a year since 1880, when they started observing the temps. in fact the last 15 years have had 10 heat records...is that a sign?

A journey to heaven

2010-07-09T20:25:00.004-06:00

Mt Gimli in Valhalla Provincial Park, Canada. The South ridge starts a bit on the left hand side of the ridge and then go on it to the top.

I have not been doing too much since the last post. Mostly work! I got a few days off so the plan was to climb. Focusing on gear and alpine. Well, I only did two routes in the last 5 days, one being an after-work climb with Erin where we did a 7 pitch 5.8 (not bad for an evening climb) and the other one...well!

Fridjon reaching for the crux move on pitch six

I took off to the Valhallas on Wednesday. First stop was in Fernie to pick up my climbing partner, Ryan! After a quick food stop we took off and drove to the parking lot in Valhalla Provincial Park, which is in the Kooteneys. The parking lot sits at 1.750m so we got up high really fast. Another quick bite to eat and then we took out the sleeping bags and slept besides the car with a crystal clear sky above us...amazing show of stars!!!

Fridjon on the summit in his running shoes ;)

We got up at 4:30 and were on our way 5:10 after a big breakfast. The approach took an hour and a half so we were climbing in no time. To make a long story short, the climb starts pretty good but I was expecting very good. As soon as we crested the ridge it self, it became phenomenal! AMAZING. It really is some of the best alpine climbing around here in Canada.

Ryan foot looking down from pitch 5

The route is grated 5.8 IV by the older grades but be prepared for a sustained 5.8 on the first pitch. The upper crux is just amazing...super fun!

We made it back to the car in 8 hours 45 min. Perfect alpine day

A fine 360° view from the summit. There we see Mt Asgard

History of the names: Valhallas are the home of the Norse gods as we speak. When Ragnarök (Armageddon) comes and most of the gods fall, the new world, where after the big war, is called Gimli. Icelandic people that moved to N-America in the late 1800´s, early 1900´s, and finally chose to live in Manitoba, called their new home Gimli!

I find all these Nordic mythology names fasinating as I grew up with all these stories. I will return to this place again.

Next time off...a new adventure

Back to "regular" life

2010-06-22T18:21:00.003-06:00

The Arctic HeliSkiing little truck

Again, been ages since I put anything in here but now its time to fix that. I guess "regular" life means that I will sleep in my own bed more and will therefor be able to update this blog more often! Speaking of sleeping in my own bed, I have spent in total 8 nights in my bed since early February! Getting a bit sick of living in a suitcase.

Looks like summer, but still skiing

Getting ready to popp the cherry on this great colouoir, we named it Kaldi Colouire, after a great beer brewd near by

Erin came to Iceland while I was there in the beginning of June which marked the ending of my work stint there and it was time to relax...couldn't be more wrong, it means that its time to visit everyone and not enough time to do it. I was kind of relieved when Bergmenn Mountain Guides (http://www.bergmenn.com/) asked me to do three days of ski mountaineering mid June...yes, I said mid June! It was just what I needed Before finishing a long ski season. First day of ski guiding this winter was November 31st and the last one June 13th. Thank you very much

First descent down Banana Colouire

Mikkel, my guest, coming up the last few meters of Kaldi

Tomorrow I leave for the Ice Fields and along with work, it will be time to train hard in the alpine. We´ll talk more about that later

Life is better now...

2010-06-08T05:46:00.003-06:00

Erin close to Aguille du Chardoney

...not that it was bad at all, but 2 months away from my sweet Erin is 2 months too long!!! She arrived last Monday morning (on the 31st) and it´s been busy seeing old friends ever since. Actually, its way too busy! Next time we are setting a time and place where folks can come and visit for a bit and then its vacation time...not chasing people around time!!!

Gummi Glacier bringing his group up to the summit of Hrútfjallstindar

I guided on Hrútfjallstindar just before Erin came over. It starts at sea level and tops out at 1.875 meters. Great day on a great mountain!

As well, planing a trip to Russia next year to climb Elbrus, the highest mountain in Europe. Already there is some interest in it and it looks like it will be a go. It will be my second time planing and selling a trip to that summit. Hopefully it goes as well as last time!

Erin and I have also been meeting with travelling agencies that are interested in trips to Canada and other places in the future and it looks like there is plenty to do as usual.

Still lots of snow up north

One more week here in Iceland for us before we fly to Calgary, but this weekend I have three more days of ski guiding...more like ski mountaineering! One client who wants to ski steep chutes and stuff like that. Hopefully I will have some great shots from that after the weekend

SkiYaL8R

Learn to dance in the rain instead of waiting for the storm to pass

2010-05-20T05:49:00.002-06:00

Just got back from finishing the heli ski season with Arctic Heli Skiing, what a job! Awesome company, awesome people, awesome food, etc etc

Photo from Dyrhamar, which is situated on the rim of the gigantic crater of Öræfajökull...cool place

Now its time to go for the summit of Iceland once more. Leaving tomorrow for that!

A few meters from the summit of Hvannadalshnúkur

Last trip went great with a group from Toppfarar, see some photos on www.toppfarar.is

A quick rest before heading to the summit

Hopefully a little bit of rest after the weekend. Then back to work before Erin comes over for a visit...then its definitely rest-time

Nice rest in between trips. Skuggi and Friðjón enjoying some fresh sea air!

The volcano seems to want to go on for a long time but listening to the international news is surreal, everything is so pessimistic and at the same time we ski almost 11.000meters in bluebird conditions! Go figure

Nice view

Where is the Volcano?

2010-05-11T03:40:00.003-06:00

Helicopter flyes towards the arctic circle just after 21:00 at night!!! Beat that

Foreign media keeps broadcasting to the world that Iceland is disappearing in ash due to the Eyjafjalajökull volcano! Well, here are a few photos from the last few days of heli ski guiding. You let me know if you can spot the volcano or if you can see how much it is making us, and our guests, unhappy!!!

We did 10.500meters this day, started late and finished late...I landed with the last group at the farm at 22:30, just in time for dinner ;)

What a view

Friðjón and Kirk Becker. All the photos here are from Kirk.

Still here

2010-04-28T15:41:00.004-06:00

Just got back from a week of teaching on a guides course for hard ice guides in Iceland. Good fun. The first day of summer came with lots of new snow as usual. The company I was working for is Glacier Guides, or Jöklamenn and info on that can be found at www.glacierguides.is

Back at my parents house for a couple of days and then going back north for ski touring and heliskiing.

L8R

Of Nature and Men

2010-04-20T08:36:00.006-06:00

The view from my parents summer cabin

For the part of men (that includes all mankind, women included!!!). There seems to be no end to the conveyor belt of stupidity that channels people of power and money! So, I´ll leave it at that since I won't spend my energy on that!

Skuggi and me playing in the great Icelandic forests

Just to clear a few things for folks that are not in Iceland but thing the world is coming to an end. The World is not coming to an end!!! Sure, the recent eruption has disrupted a lot of flights, especially in the UK but that is called Karma lol. Some lady writing for the Daily in London said that Icelanders attacked UK during the Cod Wars (it was the other way around), that Icelanders almost destroyed West Ham United (don´t sell your team to foreigners to avoid that...pretty simple) and for us stealing all their money (if a few idiots give you a deal that sounds too good to be true, then don´t give them your money...even if they are from Iceland). Its hard to comprehend this for all the super honest folks of the UK so I feel great pity for them!
Oh well. Anyhoo
Life goes on here in Iceland. Heli skiing has been interrupted as people cancel their flight as they are afraid. Who can blaim them as even our president is putting out propaganda to people that there will be another volcanic eruption....REMINDER to all. We live on a volcanic island that will keep doing that for a long time. DEAL with it! We have survived so far and we will keep doing that just fine. Maybe this will get people together again as a team, stop thinking about $$$ too much and focus on global problems that are at hand!?!

Poor farmers under the South side are the ones getting hit hard

Anyways, been up north skiing a bit. Then took a group to Snæfellsjökull for a ski tour there. Now working in the capital area and haeding to Skaftafell tomorrow to theach a guides course for a week. Then back to ski touring up North...so things are busy as always. No time to cry over the current situation.

My parents in the great forest with Skuggi

L8R

show me what all the howling´s for!

2010-04-08T06:53:00.003-06:00

A shot from last season here in Iceland. Not bad skiing and this year the snowline is all the way down to the ocean.

Back to work! I am still in the capital area getting stuff ready to go up north. There was a delay on the heli skiing as all the helicopters in Iceland suddenly got busy with the eruption! Everyone wants to see it up close and personal so its good business for the helicopter companies. Nice to get a bit of time off anyways from guiding and just do something else where I don´t have to talk to guests all the time...I did do 42 days of that without a brake so it shouldn't be surprising that I want a break from people!!!

Nice shot from Gummi T. of the current eruption

Its good to be home, even though I had to take my dad to the hospital the day after I arrived! We were all at my parents summer cabin when he fell and couldn't really catch his breath. He is a very stubborn man and said that he was fine, just needed a few minutes to relax! Well, he was showing some symptoms of internal damage so I took no chances and had my mom call the emergency line and we drove off to meet up with a medical crew. It turned out to be a broken rib, or ribs, and some internal bruising...could have been a lot worse! He is doing well but broken ribs always hurt lots and will take time to heal.

Its full on winter up north so skiing will be great. I will be putting pic´s on as soon as I get on the skis again!

L8R

PS give me a shout if you are interested in trips in Iceland, Greenland or where-ever

Fly fly fly

2010-03-29T17:01:00.002-06:00

Flying to the Motherland tomorrow at 1325hrs. Start with a connection flight to Seattle and then straight to Iceland. Should be there close to 0700hrs Wednesday morning! Giving my parents a big hug.

A bigger is going out to Erin as I am leaving her again, this time for 2 months. She will be coming to Iceland early June and then we fly back to Canada on the 15th of June.

I am happy to miss the tick season here in Canmore but will miss Erin and Poppy terribly much!!!

We went on a play-date with Poppys brother yesterday. I had never seen him but they are related for sure. Look the same, play the same, neither of them makes a sound, etc etc. I knew for sure when I saw a photo of their mom...Poppy is like a clone of her.

Well, next post will be from Iceland. Ski Ya L8R

Time off

2010-03-25T14:56:00.003-06:00

Sitting at home relaxing....so good. Got my flight ticket for Iceland, doing my taxes, drinking coffee, etc etc

Time to get ready for the next work session. Start with a few days of day heli skiing with Arctic Heli Skiing (AHS). Trying out some day skiing and we will see how that works. After that its a mix of heli skiing, ski touring and heli assisted ski touring (where you get a flight up to the mountains in the AM, ski all day and then a flight back to the lodge...tough life eH!)

I think I will be helping out as well with staff training with a company called Glacier Guides in Iceland. Whenever I get news on that I will let you know, but for now no one lets me know what is going on in that world...oh well!

It will be great to see friends and family when I get there as I have not been back to the Motherland for almost 3 years!!! Can´t wait to eat my "Páskaegg" that mom has stored for me.

Erin tore her ACL fairly badly recently and that alters our plans a bit but we will be going out rock climbing tomorrow in the late winter sun!

Poppy just got the metal pins removed out of her femur a week ago and is "recovering" if that's what you call having WAY too much energy...she just wants to run around everywhere! We just got unconfirmed news that we might have found out where she is from, and if that is correct then she is part wolf!!! Yaiiks. She is the sweetest thing ever.

Getting some greys after this stressful later part of the winter

First marathon coming to an end tonight

2010-03-23T16:09:00.003-06:00

Fridjon, Dave Short (pro boarder with TNF) and Russell Dalby (pro photographer)
So, here I sit at work...finishing day 41 days in a row on skis every single day! My knees hurt a bit but they are doing quite good considering along with my spirits.
Started this shift with 11 or 12 days (can't even remember my own name anymore) at MPS, then 14 with CMH Revelstoke and then back to MPS for the last push!
Last few days here at MPS, I am not coming back next year. Been here for 5 years and its time to move on to other things...will talk about that later in another blog post.
Here are 2 links to the first taste of what I was doing for the last week and a half here...
http://www.snowboardcanada.com/Blogs/post/77/Interior-Pow-Tour-Stop-1-Monashee-Powder-Cats
http://www.russelldalby.com/ (go to his blog section and read about the trip!!!)

And a quick visual taste of the Under Armour shoot
http://www.newschoolers.com/web/content/viewvideo/id/337529/ there are two videos, time to take a look!!!
More later, have to get out of here for the last time

Two marathons in a row

2010-02-09T11:54:00.004-07:00

Fridjon walking down between rappels on Polar Circus

Mike starting up yet another pitch on the Polar Circus

So, yes! Time for two marathons!!! I am leaving tomorrow for a marathon shift in mechanized skiing. First, Start with a week and a half of cat skiing, then, almost two weeks of heli right after and then straight back to cat skiing for 18 days!!! All in all, 42 days of work without rest if that is the way it goes (might change due to bookings).

Then home for a bit to celebrate Erin´s birthday. After that, marathon number 2. Going to Iceland for heli ski guiding, ski mountaineer guiding, mountain guiding, etc etc. Maybe more than 2 months!!!

Nice view

But, on this shift off I only did 5 ice routes, they combined to 1850 meters of ice climbing. The last one was yesterday with Mike Davis on Polar Circus. We were less then 11 and a half hours from Canmore to Canmore!!! Only 4 and a half hours from the bottom to the top, not too bad for two old dudes!!!

Here are some pics from the day

Feeling small on the last 100m part

I will splitt the difference. Fridjon getting more flexible than usual!

Feeling even smaller

Putting in some screws on the final pitch

Looking back at the final headwall of Polar Circus

What a day to be out in the mountains with a good friend. Mike and Fridjon getting ready to descend some 760 vertical meter to the car in an hour and a half! We were having "Brennivin" (icelandic schnapps) before 3o´clock!!! YEAH!!!

Some pics from yesterday

2010-02-05T13:31:00.003-07:00

Mike busting some moves to get to the last WI5 part

So, have been climbing and skiing like an animal for the last few days. Rogans, Bridge too far, Professors and Super Bock yesterday, here are some pics from yesterday that Fraser took. Fraser, Mike and myself where the one´s up to no good...enjoy

Nice views from the route towards Mt Field

Rappelling off. Nice when you have huge pillars to use for that!!!

Fridjon getting up a couple of steps.

Mike and Fridjon following Frasers line. It was nice and wet...but at least cold as well!!!

The Super Bock goes at WI5 and is 300meters long! You can park right by the river which we crossed without popping through into it...a good thing indeed. But when in doubt, just lie on your stomach and belly flop gently. One can use the ice tools to drag oneself over with delicacy!!!

My time off

2010-01-31T16:11:00.002-07:00

Its a hard job, but someone has to do it!!!

Hmmm, first couple of days I was coma-toast after 14 days of work straight! Can´t complain too much much as they are only 14 hr days!!!

Went for a ski tour wit Poppy last Wednesday and we did a 8 km tour in Kananaskis Country (K-country), she did great on her very first ski tour...a real champ!

Good mountain bike tour the day after and then on Friday I did a 300m WI4 with Oman on Mount Kid in K-country, awesome day and it was good to swing the ice tools again after 2 months away from it!

Today Erin, Poppy and I went for another ski tour in K-country and it was great as well. Erin just got a pair of bindings so her ski touring setup is finally complete...we will go again tomorrow.

Enough for now, L8R

Back to C-more

2010-01-26T13:41:00.004-07:00

And yes, I turned a year older on Sunday!!!

Just got back from just 0ver 2 weeks away ski guiding at Monashee Powder Snowcats (http://www.monasheepowder.com/).

Skiing was sick as always and here are a few pics to prove it. All the photos are taken by Dave Silver, which you can find on the internet if you like some of these pics. He´s Good!!!

Sven picking a sweet line in Dill´s Pickle

Sometimes you have to go inverted! Sven hucking his meet in the Swamp area

Just another turn at work

Who is that masked man?

Julian Carr knoking of branches in the Burnt Fores

The guide has to have fun too

Happy New Year and thanks for all the good´ol times

2010-01-02T10:45:00.003-07:00

What a year! Beginning of Jan 2009 brought lots of stress due to avalanche hazard at work and pretty much everywhere in the BC and Alberta Provinces! Definitely luck to escape some of it and I will never forget walking away from one slide that was big enough to destroy a truck and it had my name on it!

Ski mountaineering during the Full Ski guide exam with the ACMG

But, also passed the Full ski guide exam that spring. That is supposed to be the hardest ski guide exam in the world!!! Maybe it was the trip to Sol Mountain before the exam that did the trick...nice relaxing ski touring in a remote lodge with my beautiful wife Erin!

Erin on an alpine route last summer...having a blast as always

Right after the exam, it was full on again! Getting ready for the rock guide exam! I trained hard and religiously all summer and ended up passing that one as well! Good job Friðjón!!!

Just before that exam Poppy came into our lives and because of her we had to move to a new place here in Canmore. Its very nice! Along with training I worked at the Athabasca glacier and it was awesome with the training as it was pretty easy!

Fall was super slow for work on my side but now I am back to ski guiding.
Started the ski season with a 22 day shift...8 days with CMH and the rest with Monashee Powder.

Now my parents are here for two and a half weeks and then its back to work for me.
So far this year is shaping up to be busy, already have 16 full on days on mixed and ice and work is busy until end of march...then its back to Iceland for some ski touring and heli skiing work. More about that later.

Anyhoo, thanks for the past years and I am looking forward to seeing you in the future againAt work...any given day, I will stop at work and think "I can´t belive I get payed for this stuff!!!"

Merry X-mas

2009-12-25T16:39:00.003-07:00

X-mas view from our livingroom window

Parents are here for X-mas. Nice and relaxing. Today we went out early morning to fell a tree to use as a X-mas tree. Skulking around with a saw and a snowboarding bag...we used the snowboarding bag to put the tree inn so we wouldn't look too suspicious!!! I felt like a criminal but whatever!

Criminals stealing a tree...don´t tell anyone!!!

Before that I had a 22 day shift with the average day being at 15 hrs and the shortest being only a 10 hr day! Nice to be home to relax

and getting the tree out of the bag in the living room

Work was pretty good. Lots of days with Monashee Powder and then 8 days with CMH!

I know its been a long time since the last blog but I have nothing to say...just wanted to let you know that I am still blogging

-23°C Today...BRRRrrrrrrrr

2009-12-02T16:21:00.003-07:00

Dave H is visiting these days! For a bit of climbing before we submerge ourselves into the ski world!!!
Started with a short day at King Creek. Erin came along too. I put up a short route and then we did laps on it. Erin and Dave both lead them as well after warming up. We did a few lines to complete the day! It was just below zero and the ice was fantastic...then it started puking snow for a few hours!
Me getting high on Wicked Wanda in the Ghost Valley! Dave took the photo.

Day two saw Dave and I in the Ghost Valley. We hiked to Weathering Heights and started up that route, it was detached and very thin so chickened out and down climbed it. Also looked at Anorexia Nervosa but there was no pro to be had on the first pitch. Which was too bad as the upper part looked stellar!
On the hike out we decided to at least look at Wicked Wanda. We climbed everything except the last 10m or so as it was wet at the top and it was getting late with all the hiking we did! Fun though!!!

Wicked Wanda again

Today we went into Haffner. My enthusiasm is getting low and the fact that it was -23°C at the parking lot was demotivating at best!!! I stated up an ice route and after swinging a few times and listening to it crack a lot I came down. Did a mixed route instead where we wern´t afraid of the whole thing coming down!

Now, packing for staff training. Start with two days at CMH and then MPS for the rest of the month...so I am gone until the 24th working!

But before we start training, we will get a day of ski touring at Rogers Pass tomorrow. Should be epic as there is a 2m snow base at the Fidelity station right now.

If I don't post anything then have a good one until next time

Mixed day

2009-11-27T09:06:00.003-07:00

A picture from one of the routes we did yesterday...this pic is from Elvar Örn and was taken a while back when I climbed it with Lucas! Think it´s a M6+ or M7, not sure!

Fraser and I went for a short day in Haffner yesterday. It was pissing rain when i left Canmore but as soon as I passed the Sunshine Ski Resort turn-off it all turned to snow.

Puking snow in Haffner so it was quite soggy!!!

We only did a couple of routes, both mixed as the ice lines were busy with guided parties. So a few laps each on each route...good enough for me!

Poppy came along and one could barely see her sticking out if the snow on the way in, she was running like crazy and keeping her head down to get more snow!!! Fairly consistent 40cm coverage on the trail and it was snowing at 2cm per hour while we were there.

L8R

Out and about

2009-11-25T09:52:00.003-07:00

Beautiful sunset as we walked back to the car.

Going into work mid next week...finally! Cant wait to start making some bread to pay the bills etc.

Well on our way up Moonlight

Went out yesterday with Chris and Fraser and we did get up Moonlight WI4 and 2Low4Zero WI3+.

Me following after Chris put up the first pitch, you can see Frasers foot in the pic too...he took the photos

Moonlight was in it´s usual state and took good screws to the top. One of the best routes in the area, all 110m of it. 2L4Z was a different story! I have been in that area a few times over the years and never really seen it inn! Now it is but it´s thin and takes almost only stubbies...when you can actually get those inn!!! It was a mental lead for sure! Picks were a bit dull after that one.

Fridjon a few meters up on 2Low4Zero. The ice is not as fat as it looks. Only took 3 good screws for 60 meters...good, clean fun

Monday walk-about

2009-11-23T14:06:00.002-07:00

The Village Idiot

Another crack-at-noon start for me. Went and did Grotto falls WI3is today, solo! Amazingly dry after that climb. Would I recommend it to anyone right now?: NO!!! It takes no screws and its very wet

Sunday strole

2009-11-22T20:59:00.002-07:00

Went for a quick little ice day with my sweety!!! Ended up doing the 300m WI3 Cascade in brilliant conditions, only the last few meters were feeling like they might peel off the mountain at any time but that was only in my head as the pillar is well supported

Awesome day

Took Poppy out today...

2009-11-21T16:09:00.002-07:00

She had a blast jumpin the sheep!!!

If it keeps snowing like this then this winter will be sick! and I don´t mean the flu in any form!!!

2009-11-20T16:11:00.001-07:00

Les Departures

2009-11-19T09:48:00.003-07:00

Yup, Einar has left the building after a fruitful trip here in Canmore.
We started by going to the Playground to get him used to hanging on his tools again! Needless to say it was a fun day with a lazy start (its close to home)! We did a warm up M5 which Einar ended up leading as well...pretty good for a guy who hasn´t touched his tools for a while. Then I put up an M6, M6+ and ended on a M7+. The last one was hilarious. I reached the anchores in one go without hangs or rests but when I got to the anchor I could not for the sake of my life clip it!!! So Pumped!!! I hooked the hanger with my tool but even then I could not clip...ended up falling off after I got to the point of no juice in my arms lol It was frigging awesome
Day after we climbed in the Ghost.
Then Einar took a work/rest day while I went for a walk with my gear just to turn back after finding no ice where I went!
Bison was the next area we went to. Bison is a WI3 but was in 4 conditions and Fraser who was with us did that one while I went on Lollygager M7. Lollygager was in mixed gear conditions so I managed to put in 2 10cm screws before finding a bolt! Well, after a few more meters of extremely gentle picking at the ice I went for a big ride with the icicle in my arms...Erin did an awesome job of catching me but now she is a bit bruised and I almost broke my nose plus a few bruises as well.
Last day Einar and I hiked up to Murchison's 180m WI4+ only to turn around again!!! It looked very doable but the weather sucked! I like to think that I am hardcore for the weather factor but climbing in a vortex where the ropes would be blowing all over the place is not so much fun at times. So we went for coffee instead

Again, no pics as I never get any sent from my friends who take them!!!

Les Visitors

2009-11-14T18:14:00.002-07:00

Yes, Einar has shown up for a week of climbing! He drove from Levenworth on Wednesday and was here in C-more at ca 2100hrs!

Thursday we went to warm up the Playground and Einar got pumped silly on routes up to M7+..ohhh yes, I got pumped too. I went to the anchores of the M7+ and when I got there I was so pumped I could not clip the anchor! So I resolved to hooking my tool into a bolt there but even then I could not lift up the rope to clip in...PUMPAGE

Yesterday we drove early to the Ghost Valley. After 30min approach we did a pitch that seldom forms, apparently, and then jumped on Hidden Dragon WI4. I lead it and was still a bit pumped from the Playground day but all in all it went well. Right after we headed up the Joker WI3 which Einar did on lead. A really good day over all...especially as we had time to shower afterwards and go to a pizza and cocktail dinner at Miles and Chrises place!

Today was a bit of a rest day. I have no pitchers of the climbing as Einar keeps forgetting the camera in the car, but I will force him to remember for the next few days! Later

2009-11-11T10:00:00.002-07:00

Been out and about quit a bit lately! Lots of walking with the gear and a bit of climbing. Ice, mixed and rock! Last week I did Deception, 12 pitches with some moves of 5.8 in my running shoes. Walked to Twisted Sister(5 pitches 5.7 WI4) with Erin only to turn around just under the route due to slab formations (AKA avalanche conditions), that was a pleasant 5 1/2 hr walk!!! Monday on Balfour Wall which is short, lead it once and then Chris and I did 10 laps each on the steepest curtain which accumulate3es to ca 120-130 meters of steep ice! Yesterday, went to the Playground with Mike and did the classic M5 warm up, then a M7+ which I had to hang on half way up as I was pumped, M6, M6+ and then a almost onsight M7 (pealed off on the first moves and then went on to bag it...so I felt great about that).

Today, rest!

Einar Ísfeld is coming for a visit for a few days or a week starting tonight. So the plan is to climb lots while he is here and I think we will go to the Ghost among some other places!!! It will be fun!

Enough for now

Are we hard-core...or just stupid?

2009-11-01T15:45:00.004-07:00

Hmmm, the reason I ask that is because last weekend on Saturday Erin, Rebecca and I went and did Raptor in ok weather but it was just above freezing...then I mean like 1°C. Fridjon on Raptor last weekend at 1°C. Raptor is 5.10c 220 meters!!!

Since then I have gone mixed climbing and ice climbing but today, exactly a week after Raptor, I went again with Erin and Rebecca for some "nice" rock climbing! We did a route at Grassy, also a 5.10c, but there was now everywhere and just before I reached the anchores my fingers had felt like wooden stumps for a while! But you know what? It was awesome!!!Erin on the 5.10c (c is for cold)

Becca on the 5.10c

And poor Fridjon leading the 10cold

Of course Poppy came along on the climbing atventure.

Lets look at photos from the past

2009-10-30T14:35:00.004-06:00

Weeping Wall

Yam bouldering

Me mix climbing

Me Bouldering

Erin climbing one of the many steps on This House of Sky

Erin on SE ridge of LadyMac

Erin bouldering in Little China

Rest day

2009-10-27T12:55:00.004-06:00

Josh Smith on Shades of Beauty WI4

Been out and about for the last few days!

My ass ass seen by Chris Gooliaff on some route close to Curtain Call

Went to the Playground, finally, with Erin on Saturday. We did 4 routes all on-sight, nothing crazy, up to M6+! Really cool spot and excellent for times when the ice is trying to hide!!!

Again, my behind

Believe it or not, climbed Raptor on Sunday with Erin and Becca. Yes, it was pretty cold but very doable and it was awesome fun to just get out and go for it.

Monday, drove all the way up to the Icefields, past the Info Centre and to the Curtain Call. The Call wasn't inn but Chris Gooliaff and I did a couple of routes beside it to the right. Excellent day again, awesome early season fun.

Going out tomorrow and the day after to look for more ice and then we will see how things are shaping up for Halloween this weekend.

No work today

2009-10-20T17:04:00.003-06:00

Poppy, the puppy!!!

So Erin and I went for a hike up to the Playground! First time there so the route-finding was tricky but at least it was puking snow!!! I just love route descriptions that make almost no sense!
The family together, Poppy, Erin and Friðjón

Went to the Vsion climbing gym yesterday night, haven't been there for a year and a half! It was pretty good and got pumped silly...maybe even beyond silly?

Erin and Poppy playing in the snow!

But, finally I have some pics of our great little puppy, Poppy! She has gained 10 kgs in less than 2 months. Like I mentioned in a blog before, she had spent 2 months out of her whole life in a vets kennal b/c of her broken femur! Now she has spent more than 60% of her life outside of it and her progress is amazing. I just love that little Poppy

She likes to sleep...that is good for the recovery!

Changing seasons...again

2009-10-19T15:59:00.004-06:00

Yeah, that's the look on my face these days as the ice melts away again. Erin, Becca and James went ice climbing on Thursday! I went rock climbing yesterday. IN MY SHORT-SLEEVE SHIRT FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!!! Oh well

I was going to go to the Playground today that has pure dry tooling routes ranging from M5 to M11´ish. But when I steeped outside it started to rain...and now its frigging dry again! Goes to show that the Icelandic saying "Maður beilar ekki á malbikinu!!!" is pretty accurate (it means something like "A man doesn't bail on the asphalt!!!" LOL

So I just came in from the garage. I am PUMPED!!! I will have to post some pics at some point of the tricks that I use to do climbing specific exercises, it seem to work well but it will never replace climbing, that's for sure!

Like I said before, Erin has 2 weeks off and now we are into the second one so time is running out for us to do stuff as I have to go back to work tomorrow! Oh well, life doesn't always give us a break...not very often at all. Maybe a lot? Depends on how you look at it! Is the glass half...

Can´t complain though as Canmore is one sweet spot to live in. Soon there will be plethora of ice/mixed routes to do and the problem then will be; what should we climb, Ghost, Weeping Wall, Bow, K-Country, etc etc. What style?;mixed, ice, alpine, etc etc

What a wonderful life.

So this is me now after a bit of ranting and raving!!!

Impatient Patient

2009-10-11T13:17:00.004-06:00

Climbing at Grassi when the pipes leaked in the good ol days, The Overhang M6

Its so frigging cold right now for this time of year but the ice is just still not there...so close though! Its a long weekend right now and we don't have our car as its in the shop for repair, it sucks right now as I am itching to do something!

IcyBC in Marble Canyon, WI5

Forecast doesn't show any hope of a few more days on the rock (maybe if I have a fire by the base of the routes to keep from freezing) and it looks miserable almost in any driving distance for us next week...if we get the car back!!!

Swank M8, first mixed route I did of the season 2005/2006

Two days in a row I have been sitting inside watching climbing videos and then going on You Tube to watch some more, I am psyched for this winter to start and super motivated to get some routes done this year. The hit-list is big

Some M6/7

Look up Sonnie Trotters campus-training video on YouTube to get motivated!

M6/7

Here above are some ice shots from the past years to get in the groove...

Winter

2009-10-08T18:39:00.003-06:00

Good ´ol Massy´s in Field B.C.

Feels like it has arrived! I was working today and all of a sudden at 2 o´clock it started puking snow, ca 3 cm´s per hour!!! It was great.

Not sure what it is about landscaping but my lips always go super dry, no matter if I am drinking around 3 liters of liquid a day! Huh.

I kind of don't like the "in between" season of the fall and the winter. I get so stoked on the winter but its always premature. I have to pace myself a lot! So far I am doing good as I am just staying focused on training for the winter instead of just waiting for it with hope.

So far I have mostly been doing fingerboard training but also spend lots of time hanging on my ice tools to get my hands used to them again!

Right now the world is white outside my window and its been cold here in C-more (AKA Canmore) for a few days...even talk about ice being formed here and there but I say its still 2 weeks until full-on ice time! So training it is!

For good motivation, check out Dave Macleod web site. He knows how to trainPart of the hit list for this winter!!! The Suffer Machine on the Stanley Head Wall

I feel it in my fingers...

2009-09-30T11:23:00.004-06:00

Cold bouldering on the SW-tip of Iceland

winter is coming! Its getting colder here every night and the days are getting shorter and shorter.

I am hoping to get some work here soon to make some extra cash for the family, things are tight as it is.

Erin on home made ice in Iceland!

Been spending time here at home with Poppy and we have been re-arranging stuff after the move-inn! Yesterday we had loads of fun hanging all kinds of climbing stuff on the garage walls and then organizing other stuff in bins and barrels! I think we should have enough ice screws for the winter. Now I just need to start sharpening my tools to get ready to rumble! Plan is to do A LOT of ice this year and the plan is to start the season with a vengeance!!!

Bring it on

Hopes and Expectations

2009-09-27T17:31:00.002-06:00

H´s and E´s! Everyone should always have some and strive to full fill them as much as possible and as much as it is reasonable!!! My Hopes were to take two exams this year but as usual there were a few obstacles in the way; cash flow, time, work, etc. but we made it work and got it done. The Expectations were to at least pass one of them, that would make me happy, and hope to pass both...which would make me ecstatic!!! So I am ecstatic right now!

Now, some new H´s and E´s. I am really hoping my parents will come over the holidays (and it looks like they will), hope they like Poppy as much as we do, hope that Erin and I get to do much more activities in the mountains together this winter, hope to climb lots of WI5´s and harder this year, hope to work in Iceland/Greenland in the spring, etc etc. It´s easy to dream but if you only dream about things than they will, more than likely, not happen! You have to pursue them!

I look like a ghost right now after 7 days straight of intense migraine attacks! I went to the doctor on Wednesday morning but all I got was some drugs for anti-depression! But in "smaller" doses!!! I took one of those pills and I could not get out of bed until at 1720 the day after I took that! Screw that! Took matters in my own hands and I am getting better and the head aches are almost gone. Going natural is always better!!!!

The new place is awesome! Erin, Poppy and I are loving it to the fullest. No noise from above, we can invite friends over when we want without going on a guilt trip about it, etc. James and Rebeca have moved in as well and I think we are already one big family here and the winter will be a lot of fun!

Talking about ice climbing; coming home from work today I saw routes like the Replicant starting to form...yeeehhaaaaaaa

Enough for now

The Longest Day

2009-09-21T23:03:00.003-06:00

Erin, my wife and biggest supporter in all this guiding game stuff. I can not put to words how important her support is to me! I love you Erin!!!

I got an E-mail from the guides office on Saturday that the results for this rock exam would be in today (Monday).

There was no way I could stay in the house all day looking at my E-mails to see if i passed or not!!! So Erin and I took Poppy to the base of Yamnuska. Like I said before, I wanted/needed to do 4 more routes on Yamnuska to complete my summer...so I did 4 routes today!!!

Hurrying back to the house to look at my E-mail, there was nothing! 18hr came around the corner and still nothing. I started seeing E-mails from my fellow students complaining about not seeing anything so I wasn't the only one waiting!

Finally at almost 21hrs i got he E-mail...I passed it!!! What a relief. I cant believe that I got through! Not sure that I deserved it?

Anyway, I am so focused right now on my systems and stuff that I think I should be fine in the future!

Now, its time to train hard for the alpine program!

Well, or actually focus on moving tomorrow and the next day!

L8R

Life Is Good

Fridjon training for his alpine program! The photographers name has been hidden for personal reasons!!!

Reflections

2009-09-15T10:32:00.003-06:00

Time to be less selfish and do what the misses wants to do!

Time to trace back parts of this summer!

As I write this my fingers are tender and and I crave calories....lots of them!

I finished the asst rock exam yesterday and won't know if I passed until 2 weeks from now! It could go either way as I made some stupid stress related mistakes during the 8 day exam. We´ll see what happens but either way it was a great exam and if I have to repeat it, then I will come back way stronger than ever!!!

So Euro it hurts

The road to this point was fun but not always easy; I have climbed Yamnuska 11 times this summer, EEOR 6 times, Ha Ling once along the Sisyphus ending, Guides Rock once, Nanny Goat twice by 3 different routes, and endless shorter climbs from 1 pitch to 8 pitches!!!

All this along with working up in the Icefields. What a life!!! Can´t complain at all.

After all this, its still time to climb as the weather here is amazing! Now its time to do what Erin wants to do and time to get the alpine training rolling!!! I still plan on at least 4 routes on Yamnuska before the summer is over as well as two more on EEOR! Yeah, maybe I am a bit crazy but I do love this stuff!!!

Today, just eat, sleep, walk to puppy, eat, sleep, watch TV/movie, eat, play PS2, eat, etc.

Pura Vida

Climb, must climb!!!!

Getting close to the end

2009-09-12T19:27:00.003-06:00

Looking up to the last pitch of Grillmaiers Chimneys!

Hmmm, I did 3 days in a row on Yamnuska, on the asst rock exam (Red Shirt, Grillmaiers and Kahl wall). Short day today as we only did Raptor (220 meters of 10c) and Geriatric combined with a part of True Grit (a 5.8 route mixed with 10a) on EEOR...and I ended up leading a rope on every single pitch, which is not the norm!

Climbing a "guides" route tomorrow called Deception! Supposed to be easy and well retrofitted for guiding, so we will see i guess.

Fingers are getting sore but the will to keep going is always there!!!

Update

2009-09-09T19:38:00.002-06:00

So, finished day three today of the 8 day ACMG exam!

Yesterday was not so good...not so good at all!!! I didn´t get sent home so that is a good thing but I have to be careful not to make more mistakes. It doesn't take much to screw up!

Today I did Red Shirt on Yamnuska which goes at 5.8ish and we did 5 of the first pithces. After that we did a technical descent off the route Dreambed! It went well today so I am a bit happier!

Well, busy! More later

One day down....Seven to go

2009-09-07T19:58:00.002-06:00

Back of the Lake last year with Mike and Fraser

Started the asst rock guide exam today with the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG)! And yes, the forecast was for cold weather with -1°C windchill today, a bit nippy!!!

With snow on the mountain tops we went to do our climb-off, which is where we show that we are at the standard. a bit cold but it all went well. We also did a test on improvised rope rescue where we have to be at a demonstration standard to pass!

I started a bit shaky on the climbs due to a little stress but pulled them all off in a good manner! Also did well on my rescue scenario! So that is out of the way now.

Tomorrow we will go to Lake Louise to show that we can do routes where we place our own gear along with a tandem lower, stacked rappel and some rope ascending/descending techniques!

Examiners are Todd Guynn, Carl Johnston and Steve Holetzy (I think I am spelling his name right...these foreigners have funny names here in Canada).

More later.

Crossguards!

2009-09-02T09:09:00.003-06:00

On the Waterfall Wall in Heart Creek!

Those people that guard the crosswalks for the kids...they are nothing but glorified midget wranglers!!! I thought that was funny, it was in a movie I saw last night after I got home from work.

I woun´t be back to work for over three weeks now as the asst. rock guide exam is starting this coming Monday. So for the next few days I will be climbing and doing lots of rope practices! Not too much as I don´t want to be burned out during the exam.

The good ´ol classic Ha Ling NE Face.

Again, this exam takes 8 days in total and covers A LOT of material that deals with fairly complex guiding scenarios! But it should be fun and the goal is to learn as much as possible and of course, hopefully pass it as well.

Its been a great summer for climbing and I think/feel that I have come a long way, especially in regards to client care in the vertical world!

Erin and I are moving yet again and have found this amazing place here in Canmore. Its beautiful!

Anyhoo, got to go and do a few routes today! Tough life I know!!!

So

2009-08-29T19:29:00.002-06:00

Poppy is the most adorable puppy ever!!! So cute

But, no photos as my cameras battery has died a while ago and my computer can´t handle any video programs! Sorry

Doddi showed up a few days ago just before going to Kamloops for the TRU program! He wanted to get into shape for the rock climbing part so that was perfect for me as my ACMG asst rock exam is coming up soon! We did 2 days on Tunnel mountain, 1 in Lake Louise and 1 on Cascade Mountain (Mothers Day Buttress). Good times except I lost my iTouch. I brought it so I didn´t have to print out a topo...that was pretty expensive for a day out on the mountain!

Anyhoo, Erin and I have to move (like I mentioned before) and already found a very nice place here in the Three Sisters area in Canmore. There are three rooms, three baths and a garage...lots of space!!!

Well, going to work tomorrow for three days and then its time off until the exam is over on the 14Th. After that, hmmm, more glacier work or going back to landscaping for a bit!

L8R

ITS A DOG!!! Time to move again...

2009-08-20T17:30:00.002-06:00

Yes, Erin and I just added a new member to our family! We are going to have a cute little puppy in our lives soon. Her name is Poppy (like the flower, you know, the Icelandic Poppy).
She is not here yet as she need to spend time in the hospital as she has a broken back leg. Its a long story. The place that we live in right now does not allow pets so we are going to move again very soon. Poppy is worth that for sure!!!
Poppy is 4 month old and is an orphan that Erin and I fell in love with and Erin has practically been living in the Vet´s office for the last few weeks as she is always visiting Poppy! So sweet
On other notes, Ryan was here for three days for climbing. He arrived late on Tuesday so we did True Grit as it has a short approach and is only 5.10c and 5 pitches. Wednesday, Ha Ling via Sisyphus ending, 5.10a 12 pitches. Today, just a shorty Less Art, More Pop 5.10b as Ryan had to head home again! I have to go to work tomorrow as well!!!
L8R

Top of the Rock

2009-08-13T14:00:00.004-06:00

Erin rocking out!

It´s been a week since my last blog and I feel I need to keep it updated! Not sure what to put in here.

Doddi, who is coming back to Canada on the 21st!, on Mt. Louis

My fingers are pretty sore from yesterdays climb´s. I climbed for ca. 11 hrs in three different areas as I knew the weather would not be so good today. I´m glad I did!!!

Ryan and Amanda came for a visit and spent one night with Erin and I, havn´t seen them in ages so it was super cool. Might go and hangout at Island Lake Lodge for Thanksgiving with them and hopefully Dill and his family will join us as well...havn´t seen him since the spring!

Plan is to go visit the Motherland as well this fall and I am not sure when I will go? Depends now on Erins availability for time off!

The assistant rock guide exam is coming up in less than a month so the heat is on again. Lots more climbing ahead in my future but most of that will be on my time off as I can do more of the rescue training while I am at work!

Feels like it´s the Fall already outside, ca. 10°C and raining. Hasn´t been a good summer so far. Maybe it will be a good fall??? Who knows

Living in the life of Luxury

2009-08-05T15:44:00.003-06:00

Erin admiring the view of the Bugaboos

Just came home this afternoon from the Bugaboos. This trip was not like the one Erin and I did in 2006 when we went in and climbed some of the world famous spires! This time we went in as guests with the company Erin works for...CMH. Heli hiking!!!

The view from our bedroom. Not too bad? The is the Houndstooth.

Interesting concept as we were flown up to treeline or above to go hiking and then get picked up later! I have to say that I absolutely loved it!

A tiny frog that I picked up in the lake by the lodge. There is no amphibian life in Iceland so I was excited about this little guy!

I did a 12 pitch climb one of the days and not having to slog up to the route and then descend forever was like a dream! I don´t care what any purist says...it was frigging fun man!!!

Earl and I on the way up the route Fisherman's Friend. Peter McPherson guided us up and gave me lots of tips for my coming exam! He is a full mountain guide.

A typical day started with a grand breakfast at 8 AM and the the flights going out at 9 AM. Pack a big lunch, hike/climb for a few hours and then fly back home at around 5 PM. Great food at 7 PM (with some beverages before and after...I was on vacation) and then sleep. Next day, repeat!

I have to say that it was a treat to go on a trip like this and not be working. Following someone else for a change. Not sure if I could do that all the time though? Maybe I just like to be in charge???

The wild flowers were in full bloom so the colors were spectacular all over in the alpine. ..what a beautiful life!!!

Exam time

2009-07-28T11:33:00.003-06:00

This pic was taken by J. Simms during the Full Ski Guides exam this past Spring in the Selkirk Lodge!

Like I mentioned before, I had to re-do one part of my ski guide exam to pass the full-meal deal. And that is what I did this morning!

I asked Erin to come along as I needed a third person for the rope team and she happily took the day off to see me stressing! Ahhh, the joys of marriage! Seriously, thanx Erin! I appreciate you support beyond words.

We picked up our examiner at Beamers (coffee shop) at 8AM and of course it was raining! Drove out to Yam Bluffs where I had to rescue Erin out of a "crevasse"! She was already on a rope and had a "broken arm". I went down to her and fixed her arm, went back up and started raising! Because she had too much breakfast I had to put in an advantage for the raising! And yet another one because Greg said I was having such a hard time!!! he he Ahh the joys of exams.

Then we ran into trouble, Erin was "stuck" at the lip of the crevasse!!! Now what? Well, I lowered her ca 2m and then put her back in the raise and the rest is history.

It was a good morning and things went well! Needless to say there is always more to learn and one can never stop practising!

L8R

Life is good...as always

2009-07-25T19:55:00.002-06:00

It´s nice to think of work as a place to go to to get some rest after a full on climbing spree!

I blogged about what I did before going to work last time so no need to talk shop there.

I took 2 rest nights at work but on my last night up there I could not sit any more. Bursting with energy and starting to be waaaayyyyy to squirrely

Went to the small area of Phantom Falls and sent all the routes there...5.9, 11a/b and the 11c/d! The cool thing is that I was so determined to not do anything at work that I left all the climbing gear at home and only had my work harness and my comfy climbing shoes (I use those for routes no harder than 5.8´s usually). I was stoked to send that night.

That place is so spectacular to climb in that it doesn´t matter if the routes would suck or not (they don´t), its mindbogglingly!

I also went on a walk about to scout out new routes and man oh man...did I ever find lots of potential for new-routing, I feel like a kid in a candy store and can´t wait for my next shift with a hammer drill in hand and a plethora of bolts to put in!!!

Confessions of a serial climber

2009-07-21T19:25:00.002-06:00

Yep, you can say that's what I am becoming! A serial climber!!! In chronicle order since the last posting:
The day after the last posting I went up Forbidden Corner again, this time with Crish Gooliaff, a fellow exam candidate! We swapped leads and had a great day on the sustained long Yam route!
Monday, it rained but I went and did improvised rope rescue with Josh, another exam candidate, to keep things fresh!
Tuesday to Friday, work!
Saturday, climbed Econoline on EEOR with my sweet Erin. Its a 7 pitch 5.10a that goes on a mix of gear and bolts. Very good route that I will definitely do again!!! Summer is here for sure and I could tell as Erin only had on her tank-top the whole time...and of course some pants!!!
Sunday, Red Shirt with Crish. This 270m route on Yam has a reputation for being extremal greasy and the big surprise was that most of the grease is100% rat shit!!! If you go do this route, then take along a little bottle of hand sanitizer as the urge to put your hand on your face is overwhelming at some time points!!! Good route over all though!
Monday (yesterday), climbed The Bowl on Yam! It goes at 5.10b/c and is sustained almost the whole way! I did it with Crish and Scott came along as well (yet another exam candidate). I ended up leading everything due to a few factors so I got good two client guiding day out of it! Lots of thinking for ropes and some cool rope tricks as well!!! Make sure you are strong at the grade and don't forget your route finding skills at home! Another good Yam route!!!
And Now I am back at work for a few days and the plan is to get my crevasse rescue scenario over with on the 27th of this month. If I pass that I will be able to call myself a fully certified ski guide with the ACMG! NO PRESSURE!!!

KUHL

2009-07-11T18:54:00.002-06:00

So, got back from work last Thursday night! After the secret quartzite area and Parker ridge, I went on to explore some more ridges and stuff the evening after! So much to do up there!!!

Friday I was going to do Generosity on EEOR with Bernie but the weather was so and so! So we headed to Lake Louise instead for a day of cragging. I on sighted 2 11b´s and did 2 11a´s as well (one of them that I havn´t done before) as well as some 10´s for warm-ups (never did Rolling Stone before so that was a pretty good score on sight as well on gear!)

No rest for the wicked! Erin was getting "cabin fever" so we had to get amongst it today as well. Well, we blasted up this cool route on Guides Rock called "Paperchase" that goes at 11a on both bolts and gear...the 11a part has to be protected by gear so that was super cool. The whole route has very nice exposure and the fact that I got to do it with my sweety was the best part!!! Ah, love my wife!!!

Life in the fast lane

2009-07-06T23:10:00.002-06:00

Yup, did Corkscrew with Josh Smith last Thursday. It goes at 5.12a or 5.8 A0...and yes, we did it at the A0 grade. Its a classic exam route for the guides course so it had to be done!
Doing a route like that free is not only hard but kind of insane as the bolt ladder is ca 40 years old!! If I was on sighting 12's then I would not do that on this route! Its scary enough to put your weight on those old bolts instead of chancing a fall on them!!! Excellent route and again, as always for Yamnuska, those that put up the route had some strong head space!

Guiding: we spend a lot of money and time to get qualified to take people out and do all the worrying for them! Guests spend alot of $$$ to go out skiing/climbing and not having to train to much for it and therefor not having to think about hazards! Might seem silly to do some things that you see guides do but it all makes perfect sense if you think about it. I can honestly say that if I was going to do my first heart transplant that I would screw up in the most simple areas (simple to the surgeon).

At work right now, went and hiked to the Parker slabs after my toure! Found 4 bolted slab heavens! Potential for way more. Also looked at some very intimidating quartzite area that only has a hand full of routes. Man, us humans are so small! Int eh presence of great natural features, you feel small!!!

Hung out with some cool marmots as well after work...just them and I

Enough for now

Science Friction

2009-07-01T12:03:00.003-06:00

EEOR is the wall on the left side of the pic! EEOR´s Tail goes up just to the left of the big wall. 355m of good climbing with generally good rock!

Back from work again. Full on winter at the Icefields this time, it was snowing most of the day yesterday and full on storm 2 days prior to that! Have to remember that it is 2.000m and above up there!!!

Hiked up Boundary Peak Monday night, good 1hr to the top, think it is close to 3.000m, The view from the summit is spectacular of Hilda, A2, Athabasca, Dome, Kitchen, etc. Good after dinner hike!!!

Athabasca from the info centre

Did an attempt on EEOR´s Tail last Thursday but got rained away even before getting on it so Bernie and I did it on Friday! Excellent route with a bit of route finding skills! Recommended it to those interested (I made a topo for it for those keen). The grade is 5.8 but I would say you have to be VERY comfy on that grade as the moves can be tricky and there is some cool exposure!!!

Well, going out for a hike in the Spray Lakes area. L8R

Billy Goat

2009-06-23T11:36:00.003-06:00

Feeding the ducks after sleeping with them in Penticton a few years ago!

Arrived back in Canmore Sunday night after a few days of work at the Athabasca Icefields. I am really liking the place for work as it gives you so much opportunity to train after (or before) work.

Usually the day is mostly done at 1500 hrs! So you can zip out and do a few routes right after work until dinner...or just skip dinner and climb as long as you want!!!

Then there is all the hiking, alpine stuff, biking and running to be done.

For the climbing, a few of the areas that have trad and sport routes; Panther Falls, Weeping Wall, Weeping Wall Boulders, Parker Ridge Slabs (they have 4 pitch sport routes), Bath Creek, etc etc.

I went to the Weeping Wall Boulders last Saturday after work and was amazed how much fun it was. Well, the approach was a gruelling 1 minute walk on flat terrain and the routes were good quality! The good part is, it´s super quiet and there is so much potential for new routing!!! Might have to borrow a hammer drill and go put some up this summer?

Enough for now.

Reflecting on the past week

2009-06-17T13:55:00.002-06:00

Like I have mentioned before, I just finished the Asst. Guide Training! It took 8 days and was pretty full-on in regards of all the info that got crammed in to our little brains!!!

Things lectured on, practised, done and re-done: gear placements, station management, all kind of belays, all kind of rappels, all kind of rope configurations, all kind of lowers, coaching, teaching, lesson planing, rescue systems, knot passes, short-roping, traverses, guiding, guiding 2 clients, etc etc.

The day I dreaded the most was the Climb off day! The screening on if you are good enough of a rock climber or not! I did not get lots of climbing inn this spring so I was nervous! Big time!!!

The day we did it I ended up on the hardest route right off the bat! Hmmmm, yeah, whatever I thought to myself and went for it. Got through it no problem! Yeah!!! Second route, I was put on the hardest gear route right away (no option there as I was sent over first along with one other guy and he started easier! Well, pulled that out no problem as well! YEAH!!!

I had to do two more routes that day but they were both easier so the stress was off and I knew that I was setting myself up for success. Now I just had to keep doing what I always do, stay focused and learn as much as possible!

The week was great and I got a lot out of it. Great instructors and I am so motivated now to go and train and do well on the final rock exam this coming September!

Back to work tomorrow morning but will be back on Sunday night, so training will start this coming week. Might go do the NE route on the Windtower next week!

Erin is more than likely gonna coma and visit me at work this weekend and so we will hike and climb a bit after I finish work this Saturday and probably Sunday as well.

Have a good one

Long time No see

2009-06-15T16:02:00.002-06:00

Yes, I know I haven´t put anything in here for two weeks now! Well, I have been busy.

I started work in the beginning of this month with the Athabasca Glacier Walks and that went well, I think I will like working there are the work is good and the crew there seems good but above all fun!!!

I just finished my assistant rock guide training with the ACMG and got recommended to take the exam this fall! It was an 8 day training process and I got some good comments but just have to go out now and train to make it all work for the exam and future work of course. YEAH!!!! I am so stoked for this summer, you wouldn´t believe it!

Now I have two days off before heading back to work and believe me, I am going to relax as this training week made me a bit tired!

Back to report soon

The way I see it

2009-05-30T12:56:00.003-06:00

What a week! After about 50 pitches of climbing I actually feel (and look) tired! So today is a rest day even if I said I was going to go to Lake Louise. I both need to relax and hang out with Erin.

I managed to get 3 routes on Yamnuska this week, from Monday to Friday! Belfry 5.8+, Forbidden Corner 5.9 and Kahl Wall 5.10a! That's close to 800m of climbing on those 3 routes! I recommend all of them but Kahl Wall sticks out. It has to be the best route on Yam that I have done so far! I´ll let you know if I ever do a better one on that wall. The plan is to do 10 routes on there this summer that I have not done before and in one week I knocked off close to 30% of that!!!

I hope to go to work right after the weekend to make some cash and then its getting close to the rock training time!

It´s so nice to be able to enjoy good summer weather and hopefully it stays that way. Although I am more burned now that I was when I looked like the Canadian flag...I am more like the Swiss flag now I guess.

The Past, Present and Future

2009-05-26T14:41:00.005-06:00

Mike climbing the superb first pitch of Belfry.

Been climbing lots, finally!

Thursday saw me and Miles on the ultra classic Gooseberry (first time I ever did it!) which is a a multi pitch 5.8. Supposed to be a gear route but it has lots of fixed gear on it! Good fun though as the weather was fantastic and the views to go with that.

No one to climb with on Friday so it was only running and that kind of stuff.

Saturday, Erin and I drove to Cougar Creek but got driven away as there were cars everywhere! Never seen it like that. So we went up to White Mans Pond and decided to go to Grassi. Hmmm lots of folks there too, never seen so many there either!!! But we managed to get in a few climbs and then went for coffee after I chickened out on some 11c CHICKEN

Sunday, Erin and I went into Cougar this time and got in 9 routes. I did a few I have never done before like 1 11a/b, 1 11a, 1 10d, and then a few that we have done before. I like Cougar as everyone always climbs the same stuff so it inspires me to push into new routes and harder!

Fridjon on pitch 2 of Belfy

Monday, climbed The Belfry on Yamnuska with Ellen and Mike. The route has a the typical long approach along with a ca. 200m scramble up to the start of the climb it self. Belfry goes at the "yam" 5.8+ which means sustained and challenging! Of course it started raining on the last pitch but that was OK cause Mike was leading that one ;) Awesome day.

Pulling through the wet roof on pitch 3. Belfry

We did run into a grizzly close to the trail but fortunately he was not interested in us and kept eating his vegetables...man, I love it when they are vegetarians!

Today Mike and I did a blitz on the Raptor, 9 pitch 10c, in 1hr and 34min from clipping the first bolt to the top of the last pitch. Its so awesome to go at 8 in the AM do an approach, climb and descend before 11AM! Right above town!!! Oh yeah

Mike, Ellen and Fridjon on top of Belfry, it was raining 20min earlier but now dry and nice!

and now I have my Latte number 2 in my hand

Good life